“But Gary and Jason came in sat down, and said right, this is what we want. We want you to write the menu, because we’re not chefs; we want you to cost the menu and from there on produce it.
“They’ve left me alone – if it looks great and it tastes great then they leave me to it, as long as it’s money making.”
The overall aim is to tickle a few nostalgic tastebuds. “When people come out to a restaurant they’ll sit, look at our menu, and there’s something there that will stir a childhood memory – or I think it does!”
Hence the corned beef with the quail’s egg, or the blind Scouse without meat served with pickled beetroot sauce and a rump of lamb.
Seven chefs work in the kitchen at Circo, plus two porters, many of whom have worked with Steve before.
“I’ve got a fantastic team at the moment. It’s very unusual to have a team of seven, a team of three even, that all want to succeed and all want to push in the same direction.”
He reckons he’s always made money for every employer he’s worked for. So, does he ever want to run his own restaurant?
“I’d love to do it,” is his first response. But then he admits that maybe just now he hasn’t the bottle for it. “At what cost does it come?” he asks.
“I could walk away from this job any time I want without losing my house, my car or someone coming after me for twenty grand.
“I’d love to because I know I can make money for people. But if I failed I’d be devastated.”