MANY cooks are reluctant to tackle such an unrelenting and powerful flavour as rhubarb. But don't shy away from this most interesting and underrated of British vegetables.

Instead, harness its tangyness. Start with this week's Rhubarb Balsamic Jus, which holds its own perfectly against strong-tasting red meats, particularly roast duck breasts, game and pork.

Now is the time to start picking up indoor-grown (often also called "forced") rhubarb at the grocers

For the Rhubarb Balsamic Jus you will need 2 young, thin stalks or rhubarb, 1 tbsp water, 1 tbsp sugar, 2tbsp balsamic vinegar, 200ml (7 fl oz) jus (see below for recipe), salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Cut the rhubarb into 3cm lengths and place in a saucepan. Add the water and sugar, cover and cook slowly until tender but still holding its shape. Strain carefully, leaving the rhubarb in the saucepan. Add the balsamic vinegar to the pot and reduce by half, this allows the vinegar to coat the rhubarb. Add the jus and bring to the boil (see below for jus recipe). Season if desired.

For the jus you will need 2 litres (3½ pts) beef stock - made with beef bones vegetables and herbs, peppercorns and water, boiled, skimmed and reduced (this takes at least 3-4 hours) .

Strain the liquid into a container and to return the stock to the saucepan with half a bottle of red wine and reduce the liquid slowly. Making the stock this way takes a lot of effort but it really is worth while for the good a deep, rich flavour. It will keep in the fridge for up to one week.

Make sure your morning toast gives you a zingy wake-up call with this Rhubarb and Ginger Jam. To make eight 450g jars, take 1.8kg (4lbs) trimmed rhubarb, 1.8kg (4lbs) granulated sugar, the grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed lemons, 25-50g (1-2oz) fresh ginger, peeled and bruised and 50g (2oz) preserved stem ginger in syrup, chopped.

Wipe the rhubarb and cut into pieces. Put into a large bowl layered with the sugar, lemon zest and juice before leaving to stand overnight to allow the strong flavours to infuse the rhubarb.

The following day put the rhubarb into a wide stainless steel saucepan, add the bruised ginger tied in a muslin bag, stirring all the time over a low heat until the sugar is dissolved. When the sugar has dissolved, boil the solution rapidly until the jam sets. This should take about 10 minutes.

Stir in the chopped stem ginger at the end of the cooking time. Remove the bag of fresh ginger and then pour the jam into hot, clean jars, cover and store in a cool, dry place.

We couldn't leave you without a recipe for the ultimate comfort food - Rhubarb Crumble. For an extra dollop of winter naughtiness, serve with whipped cream and soft, brown sugar. If it's a really chilly evening stir a little amaretto into the cream.

Take 700g (1lb 8 oz) rhubarb, peeled and trimmed and roughly chopped, 35-50g (12oz) sugar, 110g (4oz) white flour, preferably unbleached, 50g (2oz) butter, 50g (2oz) caster sugar, 1-2 litre capacity pie dish.

Stew the rhubarb with the sugar if necessary. Turn into a pie dish. Allow to cool slightly while you make the crumble. Re-heat the oven to 180°C (350°F / gas mark 4).

Rub the butter into the flour, just until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs, and add the sugar. Sprinkle over the rhubarb in the pie dish. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until the topping is cooked and golden.

Add 25g (1oz) oat flakes or sliced hazelnuts or nibbed almonds to the crumble if you like a little extra crunch. A tsp of ground cinnamon or mixed spice is also a delicious, wintry addition.

* Sheila Benson and Sean Millar are at The Side Door, 29a Hope Street, Liverpool. Tel: 0151 707 7888.