FRESH salmon may have come down in price in recent years but its delicate flavour, melt-in-the- mouth texture and succulent juiciness means it will surely always be one of the most luxurious treats.

Buy wild salmon if you can – farmed fish (now sometimes called "ocean-raised") tends to be more prone to disease and often have a higher mercury content than their wild brothers and sisters.

In the name of sustainability, it is currently better to opt for Alaskan or Pacific stocks, as over fishing has taken its toll on Atlantic species.

You may think that apart from a squeeze of lemon, salmon works best unadulterated. Whilst we wouldn’t advocate going overboard, don’t be afraid to experiment a little with complimentary flavours.

Pastrami is originally spiced, smoked beef but this recipe applies the principle to salmon instead for a deeper, spicier taste.

This recipe serves eight as a starter or four as a main course. You will need 1kg (2lbs 3oz) salmon, trimmed (middle section, skin and bone removed), olive oil for brushing and a bunch of chervil.

For the marinade, take 1 tbsp salt, 1 tbsp light brown sugar, 6 juniper berries, crushed, 1 tsp smoked paprika, 2 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped, half an onion, grated, 1 tbsp Dijon mustard, 2tbsp finely chopped parsley, 1tsp crushed fennel seeds, ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper and a small glass of vodka.

Combine all the ingredients for the marinade and gently rub it into the fleshy side of the fish. Wrap tightly in cling film and place on a plate, skin side up, in the fridge for 24 hours.

Pre-heat the oven as high as it will go. Gently rub the marinade off with kitchen paper. Cut the fish into four fillets. Brush lightly with olive oil and sear in a hot, heavy-based frying pan. Slide the fish in skin side down and do not touch for at least three minutes. Turn over and transfer to the hot oven.

Salmon can be served rare or cooked through according to your personal preference. For rare, roast for four to five minutes, for cooked, about eight minutes. Remove and allow to rest for five minutes.

With a sharp knife cut each fillet into four slices. Try serving the salmon with this Remoulade – a mayonnaise-based sauce use to dress salads and cold meats and which goes perfectly with the Pastrami Salmon. Here we’ve added carrot and celeriac for extra flavour.

You will need 1 small celeriac, 5 carrots, 4tbsp Greek yoghurt, 3tbsp mayonnaise, 1 heaped tsp whole grain mustard, 1 tbsp baby capers, and a handful each of chervil and parsley, chopped.

Peel the celeriac and carrots, grated or julienne, in the processor. Combine with all the other ingredients, then season. Simple!

Salmon, Green Peppercorn and Capers serves four. Take 4 salmon fillets weighing about 180g (6oz) each, 2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for drizzling, 4 handfuls of spinach, well rinsed, 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 3cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated, 1 glass of white wine. 2tbsp capers, well rinsed, 2tbsp green peppercorns in brine, rinsed and one lemon, quartered.

Lightly coat the salmon in olive oil, season well with salt and pepper. Heat a frying pan and when it is almost smoking, add the salmon, cook for three minutes, turn over and cook for the same time on the other side. Lower the heat, cover the pan with foil and cook for a further 3-4 minutes. Remove and keep warm.

Add the spinach to the pan and toss in the hot juices until it just starts to wilt. Add the garlic and ginger, toss in the hot pan briefly, remove and keep warm.

Add the wine to the hot pan, along with the capers and peppercorns and boil to reduce the liquid by half.

Place the salmon on top of the wilted spinach, spoon over the pan juices, along with the capers and peppercorns and serve with a lemon quarter and a generous drizzle of olive oil.

* Sheila Benson and Sean Millar are at The Side Door, 29a Hope Street, Liverpool. Tel: 0151 707 7888.