Recipes: Awesome asparagus dishes

May 17 2008 by Sheila Benson and Sean Millar, Liverpool Daily Post

WE’RE over half way through spring already, and just in case the warmer weather wasn’t a big enough clue that summer’s just around the corner, there are a few other hints beginning to show up too – the days are growing longer, shorts and T-shirts are creeping out of hibernation and asparagus is in season.

Asparagus is quickly becoming one of the nation’s favourite vegetables, loved for its fresh flavour and impressive nutritional value. However, much like strawberries, hot cross buns and numerous other national favourites, the season for buying this culinary delight is all too short, lasting only seven weeks from the end of April to mid June.

We only use Formby or Cheshire asparagus in the restaurant. The sandy local soils make perfect growing conditions giving these local varieties a wonderful apple-green colour to them, much better than the white European versions on offer.

Although asparagus is delicious on its own, part-boiled, steamed or roasted with flaked sea salt and a little melted butter, here are some other tempting recipes to indulge your tastebuds.

This Puff Pastry Asparagus and Ricotta tart is the perfect way to celebrate the arrival of the warm evenings. To serve 4-6, take one piece of defrosted puff pastry, 500g (1lb 2oz) fresh asparagus, 250g (9oz) ricotta cheese, 250g (9oz) double cream or creme fraiche, 3 medium eggs and a little black pepper to season.

On a floured surface, roll out the dough into a long rectangle – about 30cm by 45cm – or a circle about 45cm across. Lightly grease a baking tray, then run it under the cold tap, shake off the excess water and lay the pastry over it, cutting away the excess. Roll out the trimmings into a long strip roughly 2-3cm wide and lay them around the edge of the baking tray to form a border. You can be a bit creative here, using the back of a knife to make a pattern on the border.

Chill the pastry for 20-30 minutes to firm it up before placing in a preheated oven. Bake at 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7 until brown and well risen.

While your pastry is browning, you can make a start on the filling. Trim the asparagus, peeling the lower ends of the stalks and cook until tender in boiling, salted water. Drain the spears and chop into 8-10cm lengths. Next, beat together the ricotta, cream and eggs with 1tsp salt and black pepper.

When the case is done, remove it from the oven and reduce the temperature to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5. Gently press down on the centre part of the pastry to form a tart shell and arrange the asparagus around the base carefully. Spoon in the ricotta and cream mixture before returning the tart to the oven and cook until the filling has risen and is just firm. This should take around an extra 25 minutes.

This next recipe is one of our favourite ways to serve asparagus, with the mint and peas combining to give a wonderful fresh flavour.

For six, you’ll need 1kg (2lb 3oz) fresh peas-in-the-pod, one sprig of mint, finely chopped, 40g (2oz) melted butter, 30g (1oz) plain flour, 2 large eggs, 750g (1lb 10oz) asparagus and a little groundnut oil for frying. For the sauce, 200ml (6 fl oz) low fat creme fraiche and 1tbsp finely chopped tarragon.

Pod the peas and process together with the mint until lightly chopped, then mix together with the melted butter, flour and eggs. Season the mixture before processing again to combine thoroughly. To make the sauce, add the tarragon to the creme fraiche and add a little salt.

When it’s time to serve, briefly whiz the pea mix again to combine and cook the asparagus in boiling water until bright green and just tender – roughly 7-8 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp of oil in a large frying pan and drop in about 1dsp of the pea mix. You should be able to cook about four or five at a time, turning over when they have set and are golden brown. Cook for a further minute or two before draining the excess oil away on kitchen paper.

Serve two or three fritters with a generous dollop of tarragon cream and a few of the luscious, green asparagus spears.

There you have it, two simple but delicious recipes to help you make the most of the all too short asparagus season.

* Sheila Benson and Sean Millar are at The Side Door, 29a Hope Street, Liverpool. Tel: 0151 707 7888.