DESPITE the recent good weekend weather we’ve had, there is no doubt autumn is here as our nights draw in. Shorter days always call for wholesome, hearty food that is both filling and nutritional – a bowl of soup, or a rich pastry tart perhaps?

Hearty doesn’t have to equal stodge though, and this week we’re focussing our attentions on the mushroom – an obvious port of call in the autumn. Not only are they delicious, but their high protein content makes them filling for vegetarians and carnivores alike.

We use a large variety of mushrooms in our restaurant particularly throughout autumn. There are a wide range of species available, and we encourage you to branch out from the button mushroom we’re all familiar with.

Why not try some Portobello mushrooms cooked with oyster sauce? Their rich earthy flavour also goes well with generous chunks of mozzarella and garlic thrown on top and then grilled or oven roasted. By way of contrast, chanterelles have a natural fruity character and are wonderful with a dash of lemon juice.

We couldn’t do this column without mentioning mushroom soup – as familiar to autumn as a new coat. A great tip is to first roast the mushrooms to intensify their flavour giving you a tastier soup than your average shop bought fare. Sautee about 500g (1lb 4oz) of roasted mushroom - preferably chestnut, field or Portobello – with two finely sliced medium onions, and two cloves of crushed garlic.

The key to maintaining a rich, satisfying soup is to keep the lid on the pan at all times, preventing the flavour from evaporating away. Cook the mushrooms, onion and garlic for about ten minutes in a little butter and vegetable oil.

Cover the mix with water, add a tablespoon of vegetable bouillon and simmer, keeping the lid on, for 15 minutes. Finally blend the mixture using a food processor and season with salt and black pepper to taste.

Another wonderful main course we often serve at The Side Door is wild mushroom tart with garlic butter. To serve four take 450g (1lb 2oz) of assorted wild mushrooms, 125g (5oz) of unsalted butter, 2 garlic cloves, a handful of flat leaf parsley, 400g (1lb) of ready rolled puff pastry, salt and pepper, and chives to garnish.

Begin by pre-heating the oven to its highest setting. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off and discarding the earthy ends and wiping the caps with a damp cloth. Slice into manageable pieces if necessary.

For the garlic butter, cut the butter into small pieces, peeling and crushing the garlic and roughly chopping the flat leaf parsley. Blend all three together and season generously with salt and pepper.

Roll out a sheet of the puff pastry to approximately 3mm in thickness and cut into circles with a diameter of approximately 15cm, using a plate as a template if necessary. Lay the pastry bases out on baking trays but do not oil the trays.

Partially cook the mushrooms, frying them with a little oil and butter for about two minutes. Allow them to cool a little then divide into four equal amounts. Mould the mushrooms into a tight ball and place in the centre of each pastry circle, and crimp the edge of the pastry base with a blunt kitchen knife encouraging the pastry to rise around the mushrooms.

Put a 30g (1oz) lump of the garlic butter on each round of mushroom, put the tarts in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until the pastry has risen and browned. Serve immediately, garnishing the tarts with the finely sliced chives. Serve with salad and homemade coleslaw.

Hopefully this foray into fungi will lift your menus this autumn.

* Sheila Benson and Sean Millar are at The Side Door, 29a Hope Street, Liverpool. Tel: 0151 707 7888.