Sommelier: This month, like me, is red all over

Mar 11 2008 by Mathew Sloane, Liverpool Daily Post

SPRING – it’s pretty much here. Amid the earthquakes, gale-force winds and apocalyptic downpours, I’ve spied a few slivers of sunshine fighting their way through the steel and concrete jungle of our ever-growing city centre.

As nice as it is to see the odd bright sky and feel a bit of good old cosmic burn on the back of your neck, don’t be too hasty. The nights are still a tad Scandinavian and I wouldn’t bet against a monsoon or three before April.

This inconsistent weather demands a firm and resolute approach to dining, and I’m talking about roast lamb, pork crackling, gravy with bits in, fish pie, rare rib of beef and as many honey roasted English vegetables as you can muster.

Of course, with all of this sublime tucker, we’re going to need some serious wine.

Apologies for those of you who have yet to find a red wine that you can enjoy, I’m sure I shall cater for your uncouth tastes in the future. This month, like me, is red all over.

My first bottle was brought over to me from South Africa, via four flights and much toil – Tokara Queen Of Night 2005 is one of those rare wines that comes along every now and again and smacks you around the head with a shout of "Where have you been all my life?"

A tidy blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this big bully had plenty of blackberry and dark chocolate flavours with a hefty dab of oak.

I would have liked to have put it away for a few years and maybe necked it watching Rambo 7 – Assignment Torquay, but I was too excited and had to try it with some very rare, roasted rump of lamb and the selfless individual who had carried it across many a mile.

For a few, all too brief moments, my troubles were chased into the Lark Lane night by a combination of decadent dining and, of course, charming company.

You won’t find this robust bruiser in your local shop, however.

If you ask really nicely and send some gold bullion, the vineyard may let you have a bottle, otherwise, check out your local wine purveyor for some big South African reds, you’ll be amazed at the value for money this region offers.

Pinot Noir. I’d like to leave it there but I’m aware that the very notion of being so arrogantly obtuse may leave me as popular as city centre road works, so I’ll expand on a topic I’ve often ranted about but feel the cause needs further support.

You can spend as little as six quid on a decent Chilean Pinot Noir, around a ten-spot for something cheeky from New Zealand, a few dabs more for something American and up to around a billion quid for something silly from Burgundy.

I implore you to go on a mission, a mission to discover the delights and complexities of the "king of red grapes".

Those fine and unassuming chaps at 60 Hope Street carry a smart wee devil – Benton Lane Pinot Noir, Oregon, USA – at varying vintages for a slightly decadent fifty notes or so. You’ll want to pay more. It rocks. Do it.