Holidays: Ireland’s unforgettable west coast

Ireland

One short visit and Tori Mayo is hooked for life on good old-fashioned Irish craic

At times we left the beaten track, driving in and around fragmented outcrops. It was fascinating to find fishing boats apparently washed-up, several hundred metres inland, at low tide.

Passing through this Irish-speaking region, we saw some curious sights: motorcyclists on Harleys passing time at local craft shops, petrol pumps on pavements outside residential buildings, and blocks of peat extracted from the bogs in piles at regular intervals.

After an afternoon on the road, we checked into our hotel in Galway city as celebrations for the fortnight-long stopover of the Volvo race continued.

The crews took part in in-port racing from the headland, while the Red Arrows jets painted trails of many colours in clear blue skies, and we basked in the bay as the sun beat down.

Dinner that night, in a bohemian French bistro, rounded off an exhilarating day: we took a tipple or two in a heaving Irish bar, as a duo belted out traditional Celtic songs.

The next day we discovered why Ireland's Atlantic coast is famed for world-class beaches. The Ballyconneely Peninsula is ringed by amazing sandy shores, seen from the coast road.

Stepping out onto the practically-deserted Ballyconneely beach, with its pristine white sand and turquoise water, you feel close to paradise. It was second in quality only to those I found in Australia's Whitsunday Islands. The beach is ideal for pony trekking, and the ocean is perfect for sea kayaking and swimming, if you're brave.

Though tempted to throw down our towels and dive in, the water was a little too bracing.

A few minutes' drive away, smoked and marinated fish is cured in the traditional way at the Connemara Smokehouse.

A short drive north is the town of Clifden, a base for keen walkers and cyclists.

The Clifden Jazz and Blues festival was in full swing when we arrived, but we instead headed on to our final stop, the four-star luxury hotel Ballynahinch Castle – world-renowned for fishing.

In a 450-acre estate of woodland and rivers in the heart of Connemara, it overlooks its famous salmon fishery, with a backdrop of the beautiful 12 Bens Mountain range.

As novice anglers we learned the basics of fly-fishing, from casting techniques to fly selection, with an expert guide from the hotel. The lake was so peaceful, it felt like our own.

One short trip to Ireland's west coast, and we're hooked for life.

TORI MAYO'S visit was arranged by Tourism Ireland, and she flew to Galway with Aer Arann, which flies from Luton, Manchester and Edinburgh. Fares start at £25.75, incl taxes and charges. To book, visit www.aerann.com

B&B at Lisloughrey Lodge start at 156 euros (£133), two sharing. Reservations: 00353 94 9545 400 and www.lisloughrey.ie

B&B at Overnight Days Hotel, Galway City, starts at 49 euros (£41), two sharing. Details on 00353 91 381 200 and www.dayshotelgalway.com

B&B at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel starts at 290 euros (£245) per room, two sharing. Details on 00353 95 31006 and www.ballynahinch-castle.com

Destination information available on www.discoverireland.com and www.mayo-ireland.com

Tourism Ireland enquiries also on 0800 039 7000.

Share