Aiden Byrne is the youngest UK chef ever to win a Michelin star. Emma Johnson finds him at work in his new Cheshire eaterie

THE term gastropub is a tad over-used these days. Unheard of a few years ago, it seems to have become a catch-all term for any hostelry that offers more than one wine by the glass and parfait, rather than paté.

Chef Aiden Byrne’s first dining venture may technically be a public house, but it’s more gourmet pub than gastropub.

If his name sounds familiar, it should. Kirkby-born Aiden became the UK’s youngest Michelin star chef when he was awarded the prestigious accolade aged just 22.

Two years ago, the former Ruffwood Comp pupil took on the high-profile role of head chef at London’s renowned Dorchester Grill, only to turn his back on the big city and come back up north to open the Church Green in the leafy Cheshire outpost of Lymm.

The restaurant has barely been open 18 months, but already the plaudits are pouring in.

It was named best newcomer at the Northern Hospitality Awards and is the proud owner of three AA rosettes, which means it ranks among the top 10% of restaurants in the UK and is just one rosette behind the Michelin-starred Chester Grosvenor.

So, it is fair to say that when my husband and I rocked up there one Sunday evening, we had rather high expectations.

While its chef patron boasts sparkling credentials, there is nothing flashy about the Church Green.

Its style is very much your simple country pub with no bells and whistles – well, unless you count the rather fabulous al fresco dining area.

We hadn’t booked a table and when we arrived were asked whether we wanted bar food or to dine a la carte. It seemed wrong to come all this way and not have the full Aiden Byrne experience, so we opted for the a la carte.

As well as the bar and a la carte menus, the Church Green also offers a lunch menu, Sunday roast menu, young person’s menu and a seven- course tasting menu at £68 per person, or £98 with accompanying wines.

The menus change daily and, as you might expect from such a decorated chef, are designed to make the most of fresh seasonal produce.

On our visit, starters included hand-dived scallop with slow-cooked pork belly and new season onions (£15) and poached red mullet with frogs’ legs and watercress soup (£13.50).

I’d like to say I went straight for the frogs’ legs, but I’m afraid my palate is not that cultured.

Instead, I ordered the glazed quail with pickled carrots and lemongrass sauce (£13) while my husband chose the chicken, artichoke and hazelnut terrine with foie gras parfait (£11).

To drink, a bottle of Italian Mastri, Pinot Grigio (£21.50) was recommended.

As we were sampling this, a charming amuse bouche arrived of truffle potato soup with fois gras.

I don’t know about you but I am not generally a fan of this amuse bouche business.

Most of the time the dishes are too over the top and I am grateful that there is so little of them.

However, I would have happily eaten a full-sized portion of this one.

The AA’s review of the Church Green mentions “excellent and intelligent service” and how right that is. With each of our courses, one waiter placed the dishes while another explained their intricacies.

Which is just as well because, as anyone who saw him at work on the Great British Menu programme will attest, Aiden’s dishes are mini works of art.

My quail arrived on slate with a glass of something distinctly custard-like which our helpful waiter informed me was lemongrass and carrot vinaigrette soup with quail egg. It was an unexpected addition to the dish and, I am afraid, one which got the better of my palate. The gloopy texture was simply not for me.

The quail itself, though, could not have been better; it was tender and rich in flavour and peeled away from the bone.

My husband’s terrine looked terrific and tasted great, and Aiden must have worked quite some magic because it was the first time I have seen my other half sing liver’s praises.

For my main course, I was torn between the roasted wild sea bass with native lobster ravioli and peas a la française (£30) and the loin and breast of lamb with new season almonds (£27) apricots and cous cous. But when my other half started a spirited defence of why he should have the lamb I switched and ordered the breast and leg of cornfed chicken with figs, rosemary and lemon (£24). Sides of seasonal vegetables (£3) and chunky chips (£3.50) were also procured.

I hadn’t been sure what to expect of my main course. I don’t normally like fruit with savoury dishes, so had concerns about the figs.

I need not have worried. It was marvellous.

The cubes of chicken came with some sort of gnocchi, mixed amid the figs, drizzled in lemon and flavoured with sweet- smelling rosemary.

The effect was sweet and sticky and rich and surprisingly filling given the portion size.

Once again, though, the real show was going on across the table from me. The lamb was quite the star.

In one bowl sat strips of tender lamb with the apricots and cous cous while to the side was more lamb atop a hunk of roasted garlic. The garlic theme carried through to the steaming bowl of mash which also accompanied the dish.

The whole thing smelled divine and tasted even better. Somewhere in the mix was a sprinkling of anchovies which you would not think work with lamb, but in fact complemented it perfectly.

In the interests of giving a full review, we could not leave without trying the desserts.

As much as I should probably have found out what white chocolate and yoghurt cannelloni tastes like, I was swayed by an old favourite and ordered the sticky toffee pudding from the bar menu.

My husband, who was impressed to see Aiden touring the restaurant while I was in the ladies, chose the chocolate and strawberry sundae (both £5.95).

The sundae was jam-packed with strawberries and chocolate chips, and if there is a better sticky toffee pudding to be had in the North West, I’ve yet to taste it.

The desserts were a simple but satisfying end to a stunning meal, and we left the Church Green understanding why so much praise has been heaped upon the young Mr Byrne.

I look forward to sampling his cooking again, and with his eye currently on expanding his dining empire, something tells me I may not have to go all the way to Lymm next time.