GORDAN RAMSAY is my favourite TV chef. I know his tongue lashings can go a little too far for the faint-hearted but, once you edit out the expletives, his advice is always sound.

During his last series of Kitchen Nightmares, one theme came up time and time again - get the basics right and everything else will fall into place.

As a result, we saw him showing one chef how to make soup, another had a lesson in casserole cooking and, for a third, his over-complicated menu was replaced with old-fashioned fish and chips.

So do we have anyone locally who, as Gordan advocates, presents a simple, uncomplicated menu with flair?

Enter stage left the St John Restaurant and Bar.

Opened just over 18 months ago in the Sir Thomas Hotel, the business is one of the Flanagan brothers' ventures,, owners of the Newz Bar and Park Hotel, Netherton, among others.

The bar and restaurant was actually named in honour of head chef Stewart St John.

The interior hits just the right notes. It is cool and contemporary without being pretentious or uncomfortable. Giant red Japanese lantern-style lights illuminate the room, complemented by raw silk curtains of the same shade and deep, red leather chairs. And on the ceiling, there are walnut-framed, 1970s-style mirrors giving the room a little twist.

Seated next to a window, at a table for two, we had a perfect view of the comings and goings of Liverpool's latest additions, the Metquarter shopping centre.

But on to the menu. It's pared down compared to many restaurants in the city, but that doesn't mean it is lacking in great choices.