ONCE upon a time, hungry diners visiting Liverpool's Aigburth Road were likely to stay that way. The choice was sparse and not particularly inspiring. But how times have changed. A plethora of restaurants now grace this suburban stretch.

I've eaten in a few of them over the years with mixed results, and so thought it was time to try one of the newer establishments.

Paul's Place, close to Aigburth Cricket Club, caught my eye and I went in optimistic that it would also catch my taste buds.

The name struck me as very laid back and friendly and the atmosphere inside turned out to match, which suited me down to the ground.

My chap and I were instantly shown to a table and swiftly equipped with the menu and wine list. We were also given a table for four, which is always better than feeling squashed at a table for two.

I have to admit that in recent times I've become the archetypal grumpy old woman and where once I'd just mutter to myself if feeling disgruntled, I now mutter out loud.

It didn't take me long to gripe about my pet restaurant peeve. The huge fishbowl wine glasses which seem to be the norm these days. Seems to me it's just a clever psychological gimmick to sell more wine. Two glasses each soon sees off a bottle and it's easy to fall for the temptation to order another, having "only had two glasses."

I just hate drinking out of such vessels, but a quiet word with the obliging waitress saw them quickly vanish, replaced by sensible sized glasses. And on the plus side there were proper linen napkins.

That sorted, we chose a bottle of straw-coloured 2005 Spanish Torrelongares, which was as potent as it was delicious. At £15.95, it wasn't the cheapest but it was worth every penny.

Other options included an unusual Vineyards Algairen made from the Macabeo grape, described as strikingly fruity and velvety, and Petit Chablis Special Cuvee, which was dearer at £23.95. As always, I really wanted to drink champagne but decided that, at £34.95, a bottle of non-vintage Taittinger was over-reaching my budget.

I felt spoilt for choice with the menu. Although only faced with six starters and six mains plus two specials, I fancied all of them. But after much dithering I was then able to sit back, sip the wine, chat and relax.