Glyn Mon Hughes discovers the delights of going local
I went for Peri Las organic blue cheese, served with a poached pear and walnut salad (£4.75) which, though hardly an overwhelming portion, was quite acceptable. The cheese – subtle but with a tangy aftertaste – was excellent and certainly something worth sniffing out on a future visit to the Cheese Shop.
Anne’s king prawns and chorizo with lemon and garlic served with a salad (£5.60) was a slight disappointment. “The chorizo was very good indeed,” she said, “but the prawns looked all right but were not so good.”
Mark seemed to have made the right choice. He chose a charcuterie tasting platter (£5.95).
THESE platters, samples of most things on offer in the delicatessen, are available as starter or main course sizes, and comprised salami, air-dried smoked ham, pickled walnuts and a home-made onion marmalade, as well as what he said was the “best piece of beef he’d ever tasted”. Not surprising, really, since all beef in the restaurant is Givendale Prime – an excellent choice.
For the main courses, I opted for slow roasted Welsh lamb shank with crushed new potatoes and borlotti beans served with a rosemary gravy (£12.90). The lamb – a generous portion – was well done, with a truly excellent flavour. The vegetables, however, felt a little bland and could have been more plentiful.
Mark felt the same about his sea bass, which arrived on a bed of Cumbrian chorizo risotto. “I felt these were more sea bass fish-fingers,” he said of the two strips of fish on his plate. “The flavour is excellent and the chorizo does not, surprisingly, overpower the fish. If anything, the accompaniment is a little too salty. But I wish there was more.”
Anne decided to go vegetarian and asked for the bucatini pasta with purple sprouting broccoli, mushrooms and courgettes in a white wine and cream sauce (£8.95). “It’s very creamy but it needs some texture.”
We did manage some desserts, Mark asking for chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream, while I went for apple and cinnamon crumble (both £4.50). The home-made ice cream went down a treat while the crumble came with a small pot of real custard.
Anne had to be the winner, having asked for the cheese board (£6.50), which came with a generous helping of biscuits as well as Crabtree, Fedoria and Perl Las cheeses, as well as some Kinnerton goat’s cheese and potted Cheshire – an ancient recipe which combines cheese, butter and sherry.
This is a place which deserves to succeed, if only because of its policy on sourcing locally. A great eating experience in a relaxed, intimate atmosphere.
Joseph Benjamin Restaurant and Delicatessen 140, Northgate Street Chester, CH1 2HT
Tel: 01244 344295 www.josephbenjamin.co.uk
Opening hours: Monday: closed, Tuesday-Wednesday: 8am-6pm, Thursday-Saturday: 8am-midnight
(Last food orders 10pm). Sunday: 9.30am-5pm
The Bill (for three) with wine: £87.85
Ambience: Small, intimate, friendly
Service: Prompt and efficient
