Jade Wright samples a musicians’ haven that has just relaunched its restaurant menu

WITH a clientele which reads like a who’s who of Liverpool’s music scene, Korova has already marked itself out as the home of the city’s sound.

So when I heard that they were relaunching their restaurant menu, I expected the place to be packed, and it came as a bit of a surprise when my friend Lisa and I went in for lunch during the week that there wasn’t another soul eating.

There were a few people in the bar drinking and one look around showed that everyone was in a band.

Some working there, others drinking.

On the way in, I saw a singer I’ve interviewed behind the bar, on the way out another was smoking outside.

And as we were shown into the new Red Room dining area, it felt, as it would suggest, like the infamous Red Room from the Black Lodge scenes in Twin Peaks.

With a distinctive black and white zig-zag flooring and plush floor-to- ceiling red curtains, it looks every bit the epitome of shabby-chic decor, lots of antiques and the thick velvet that have become a signature feature of the Korova brand.

We were promptly shown to a table by a very polite waiter, where we ordered a Diet Coke each (it was the middle of the day – we were both due back to work after lunch) and browsed what was on offer.

The wine range looked fantastic, but was dwarfed by six pages of speciality beers which would have any enthusiast drooling.

On the food menu, nothing takes you by surprise, but it offers upmarket, stylishly done favourites.

We were both starving and eager to try our chosen selection of dishes.

Lisa opted for the Hot and Sour soup (£3.50) for a starter and Jerk Chicken (£7.95).

There were three vegetarian choices on the main menu – hot crunchy bean burger (£6.95), jambalaya rice balls (£7.95) and rarebit pissaladiere (£6.95) – but, looking for something a bit less formal, I went for the vegetarian breakfast from the brunch menu (£5.95).

We also ordered a generously- portioned side dish of Cajun fries (£2.95).

I know from previous experience that I can never manage three courses at lunchtime, so steered clear of the array of tempting starters in favour of a pudding later on.

Lisa’s soup arrived quickly – a red hot concoction, packed with vegetables and spices.

There was a very generous portion, so generous in fact that she struggled to finish her main course, let alone manage any pudding.

And then it was time for the mains. Our food was beautifully presented on large white square plates.

The Cajun chicken was served on a bed of rice and, Lisa said, tender and well seasoned.

My brunch came in an impressive mound, with scrambled eggs, vegetarian sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes, toast and rocket (clearly a token healthy gesture).

If I had a criticism it would have to be about the fries, the smallest part of our meal, which didn’t taste Cajun at all. They just had a bit of pepper sprinkled on top. I’m all for pepper, but let’s not oversell side dishes here.

Overall, the mains were excellent and, when the dessert menu arrived, after an appropriate break, we were tempted by a couple of the fabulous options, but Lisa had to admit defeat. Never one to back away from a fight, I chose a creme brulee with passion fruit (£4.50).

I’m glad I did. It was the resounding success of the afternoon.

Like our previous dishes, my dessert was beautifully and imaginatively presented.

Rather than arriving on a plate, it came on what looked like a small wooden chopping board.

The creme brulee with its caramelised crispy lid sat on one side of the dish, along with a generous portion of red berry compote, a passion fruit and two pieces of shortbread.

It was all clearly home-made. The shortbread in particular had a fantastic home-baked crunch.

I felt almost guilty to disrupt such a pretty picture, but I needn’t have worried – it tasted as good as it looked.

The brulee itself was divine, velvety and laced with vanilla and passion fruit seeds, and the slightly sharp berries made a tremendous contrast.

I’m something of an expert when it comes to creme brulee and this had to be one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

Every restaurant that still buys in its desserts should come here and see how great puddings can be done simply and well.

By now, we were agreeably full, with just enough room for a coffee each, as we sat back and reflected on the afternoon ahead.

All in all, we’d had a great meal – freshly cooked, well presented and arriving on the table right on time. It can’t be long before the rest of the city catches on and we’re queuing for a table.

Korova, 52-54 Wood Street, Liverpool, L1 4AQ, www.korova-liverpool.com

Tel: 0151 709 7097

Menu: Expansive and has something for everyone.

Service: Very good, friendly and keen to please

Value: Good, especially for a city centre venue

The bill: £27.30