Jane Lloyd enjoys an anniversary dinner in one of Wirral’s most exclusive hotel venues
IN THE beginning, there was the birthday. There were cakes, clowns and the crackle of goody bags. And it was good. Then, as the decades passed, people started to offer gifts containing anti-ageing creams. And that was not so good.
How to bring back the joy? Demand an expensive dinner in one of the most exclusive venues in Wirral.
I’d heard fantastic things about Hillbark’s Yellow Room with its lavish interiors and gorgeous gourmet offerings. Unfortunately, they were fully booked on the big day, forcing us to opt for the hotel’s more “informal” option of The Grill Room. And, boy, were we in for a shock. In my world, “informal” means wearing a tracksuit to trough bangers and mash – not be presented with a wine list that reads like War and Peace.
Set in 250 acres of beautiful parkland, the restaurant was situated in the right wing of an impressive 19th-century mock Tudor mansion. The décor is classic with a contemp- orary twist. And encased alone in the wooden panelled dining room with only fine crystal and silverware for company – it was hard not to feel like lord and lady of the manor.
According to the history books, the house was built in 1891 on Bidston Hill for the soap manufacturer Robert William Hudson, but was sold in 1921 to Sir Ernest Royden, who moved it, brick by brick, to its present site.
The place boasted a variety of interesting features, including a 1527 Jacobean fireplace from Sir Walter Raleigh’s house and a set of William Morris stained glass windows. The Grill Room, however, was more mod- ern with linear furniture and 21st- century prints lampooned on historic walls.
The stylish, leather-bound menus, in an array of candy hues, added a much needed splash of colour to an otherwise fairly dark room. Featuring a selection of steaks, chicken, fish and hand-crafted burgers, all cooked on a bespoke American chargrill, they heralded something special.
Our attentive waitress was quick to deliver some water and freshly baked bread as Mark thumbed through that seemingly never-ending wine list. She would have been efficient in taking our order, too, had the other half not taken what seemed like an eon to decide which vintage he was going to quaff. While the Chateau Margaux with its £1,700 price tag was tempting – the 2001 St Emilion (£31) was more realistic. Not that I minded. As designated driver, I was sticking to Diet Coke (£1.50).
For starters, I opted for the goat’s cheese on a bed of apple with baby leaves and a red pepper coulee (£6), while Mark chose the cauliflower soup (£6). The latter was thick, creamy and beautifully presented in a designer bowl. And, well, you can’t really go wrong with goat’s cheese salad – although it was certainly well present-ed and the dressing – divine. Like the first course, the second was quickly delivered to the table. And Mark tucked into what looked like half a cow. The ribeye steak (£18) was a good, quality hunk of meat – thick, tender but too large to polish off whole. Ravenous after my nightmare journey from North Wales, I had no such problem.
The generously portioned grilled salmon (£12) was scoffed in seconds, but neither of us was enamoured by the straw fries. A potato version of spun sugar – they looked lovely but were difficult to eat with cutlery. So, we inevitably regretted not ordering a separate side dish of vegetables. Minor objections aside, though, both the meat and fish were well executed. And our hound was delighted to be presented with the leftovers when we returned home. After a few minutes’ breathing space, we were presented with the dessert menu.
There was an unexpected hesitation. We were full, yet curious to sample the selection of sweets on offer. I knew, despite being tempted by the sticky toffee pudding, I couldn’t manage anything more than a basket of ice cream and sorbet (£6). Meanwhile, Mark was disappointed not to be able to finish his wine with a cheese platter and opted for the crème brulee (£6) instead. Luckily, it was an excellent substitute. The custard was rich and sensuous with a head torched to perfection – a triumph. And while I couldn’t find fault with the quartet of traditionally flavoured ices, I regretted not having the sticky toffee pudding – so much so that I’ll just have to come back on my next birthday to sample it.
The Hillbark Grill, Royden Park, Frankby, Wirral.
Tel: 0151 625 2400
Service: Attentive and efficient.
Disabled access: Yes.
Summary: A stylish dining experience in a divine location.
Value for Money: Good, but the wine list was a bit on the steep side.
The Bill: £90
