Jane Gallagher was expecting something special from a man who served top people

A RESTAURANT owned by a chef whose CV included stints at leading restaurants in London, Frankfurt, Hong Kong and Dubai seemed the perfect place for my husband and I to spend that dreary first day home after our summer holiday.

Just 24 hours earlier, we had waved goodbye to the sun-soaked beaches of the Med and were missing them already.

The only other booking on the horizon was that trip back to work so we were determined to make the most of our last day of freedom.

So it was we pitched up at Michael’s Restaurant, in the heart of bustling Birkdale village.

The advert we had seen for the restaurant promised a warm welcome to Chef-Patron Michael Wichmann’s first solo venture and when we discovered we were being cooked for by the man who has served up suppers for Tony Blair, Ronald Reagan and Prince Andrew we were expecting something special.

First off, the warm welcome was just as promised. Our friend- ly waitress came over straight away and offered us a table by the door. Although it was a pleasant evening the doors were open and there was a draught so I asked to be moved farther inside. No problem. Another table was quickly found.

I only wish we had asked to be seated in the rear of the restaurant, though. As the meal progressed, I began to feel it was a restaurant of two halves.

Behind the stairway was a lively light-filled room, while our table close to the bar was in contrast a little subdued.

While we sipped our tasty Rioja (£14.95) and tucked into some complimentary bread and oils, I glanced around the room to take in the decor.

There was definitely a rustic thing going on which made me feel right at home after spending the past 10 days eating out in the south-west of France.

While I do enjoy a bit of minimalism, I have to confess I feel much more at home in these earthier venues.

Our first course arrived in perfect time. Long enough to know it had been freshly prepar- ed, but not long enough to leave us so hungry we would eat anything.

My four seared king scallops were decorously served, along with tabbouleh and rocket.

The dish was presented artistically enough but sadly the dominant flavours of rocket and mint from the tabbouleh seemed to overpower the delicate flavour of the scallops. And at £6.80 I would have expected a little more on my plate.

My husband chose the home-made duck spring rolls with crispy vegetables and hoi sin dressing (£5.80) and found his dish was more robust in flavour and offering a heartier serving, one which he devoured without complaint.

A respectable pause before the main course and my Sea Bass (£14.50) was a triumph. The hearty, yet delicate fish, was cooked to perfection. It arrived amid a pile of steamed basmati rice (my favourite way to cook rice), watercress pesto and a sweet salsa. The flavours and textures here were perfect.

On the other hand, my husband’s Pork (£12.90) was a little disappointing, he claimed.

He felt the meat was dry and overcooked and the Armagnac Prunes and Sweet Potato added a little too much sweetness to the dish.

I must admit here that I am not a great sweet fan and the only time I ever sample a pudding is for the purposes of taste tests like this one. Usually, I manage a mouthful to make my comment and leave the rest to my hungrier husband.

However, this time I have to confess I managed to eat it all. The white chocolate creme brulee (£4.95) with raspberry coulis and fresh raspberries hit just the right note. The sweetness of the chocolate and sugar coated topping were tempered by the more sour but succulent fruit. Soft dreamy creamy custard, crisp sugary shell and sensuous berries made for a perfect match.

A self-confessed chocoholic, my husband chose the Chocolate Fondant pudding (£5.50) which was in essence a dark chocolate sponge which came with home made ice cream.

Although he enjoyed his sweet, I have to confess I felt quite smug that for once I had made the right choice. The meal was rounded off with two coffees, as usual an espresso for him and a cappuccino for me.

It was an excellent end to a summer holiday which provided a reminder of everything that is good in life. Good food, good drink, good surroundings and spending time with the people you enjoy being with.

Michael's Restaurant, 47, Liverpool Road, Birkdale. Tel: 01704 550886

Interior: Shabby chic

Opening Times: Dinner Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm. Open for lunch on Sunday from noon.

Food: Fresh ingredients creatively prepared and presented.

Value for money: On the pricey side at the weekend, but on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday they offer a Starter and Main course for £12.50 between 6pm and 8pm (6-7pm on Friday) which is excellent value.

The bill: £68 for three courses, bottle of wine, coffees for two.

Service: Friendly but professional.

Disabled Access: It is a groundfloor restaurant.