Revisiting an old haunt, Glyn Mon Hughes finds a completely different ambience for a night out

THE last time we went to Pastarazzi, it was deafening. We went with a group of friends with the intention of making polite – well, reasonably intelligent – conversation.

When we got there, the music was full blast, the packed place was a babble of chatter – nothing wrong with that – and the kitchen was at full pelt.

It was with some trepidation, therefore, that we sallied forth. We should not have feared.

We arrived at 6pm on a summer’s evening to find the place deserted and we stood in reception for what seemed an age before someone came to welcome us.

They then sent us to the upstairs bar, which was very nice, and where we remained for a good 10 minutes until a perfectly friendly person came to ask us if we’d like some drinks.

Well, yes. Mark asked for a Magners, having noted that there was no draught beer or cider.

I asked for Jim Beam with American Dry. “Haven’t got that,” she said. “Canadian?”. “No.” “Any ginger ale?” “Er . . . no.” “On the rocks, then.”

And then we were left with the drinks and the menu. For nearly half-an-hour. The place is all Gothic Victorian splendour and the ambience very agreeable.

And there’s an ever-changing view of Chester over the roundabout near the castle – but that long to study a menu seems excessive.

Eventually, we were ushered downstairs.

Service, it has to be said, is impeccable. It’s unhurried, pleasant and polite. Perfectly starched tablecloths adorn each table and the waitress places the napkin on your lap. Things looked up instantly.

What differentiates the new Pastarazzi from the old is the fact it has succumbed to the trend to source its ingredients locally, enlisting the help of Made in Cheshire and North West Fine Foods.

So the watercress is from Wirral, the lamb from the Conwy Valley and goat’s cheese from a beast in Delamere.

The menu is extensive with 15 starters, 14 mains and what they call “special pastas” – £5.95-£7.95 for a starter portion, add £3 for a main course.

Some starters appeared rather run-of-the-mill: crab and salmon fishcakes, for instance, or buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil and sliced beef tomatoes, dressed with basil oil. But the rest were hugely enticing.

Cheshire smokehouse smoked salmon, with a salad of baby spinach, prawns and capers, with aubergine caviar and citrus vinaigrette, perhaps.

Or king scallops wrapped in smoked pancetta with a mustard cream sauce and citrus-dressed leaves. The great thing, too, is that everything is cooked to order.

Mark went for pan-fried sardines filled with sun-blush tomatoes, black olives and fresh basil on a lemon-dressed salad (£5.95) while I opted for sautéed chicken livers with shallots and crispy bacon served on mixed leaves with a raspberry vinaigrette (£5.50).

The livers were excellent, virtually melting in the mouth. The bacon might have been a little salty for my taste but the dressing for the salad was near perfection: fruity, savoury and just right to bring out the flavours of the salad.

But all was not well opposite. “Sardines, it said,” grumbled Mark. “This is half a sardine.”

The salad was fine and so was the fish, apparently. But when the waitress came to ask if everything was all right, a resounding “No” stopped her in her tracks.

“Oh, we’ve had complaints about that before,” she said. “Do something about it, then,” muttered Mark. And he’s right. Too often, menus proclaim one thing and produce another, and few people complain.

Like the menu, the wine list is extensive and is divided into specials or house offerings.

White specials, from Italy, Australia and Chile, range in price from £16.95-£19.95 while reds, from Chile, France and Australia are rather more expensive, starting at £15.95 and ranging to £23.95.

House whites are £13.95-£15.95 and reds £13.95-£15.95, while there’s a rosé at £17.95. There’s also a rather more specialised list of wines at £15.95-£45 and reds at £17.95 to £50.

We chose a Pinot Grigio Blush Sanvigilio 2006 for £14.95. It was light and full of fruit tones – more citrus than berry – and probably about right to accompany our food.

The main course was a problem: too much choice. Mark went for Winsford – see the local connection – pork fillet marinated in orange, chilli, paprika, garlic, soy and honey, pan-fried and served with a refreshing avocado and orange salsa (£14.95) while I saw the salad of king crab claws, served with Wirral watercress and local asparagus with a citrus and chilli dressing (£19.95).

Though both courses came with a small selection of seasonal vegetables, both dishes were ample. Just looking at Mark showed that he’d made the right choice.

I’ll admit to struggling with my crab claws, though the meat was absolutely stunning.

There was a mite too much salad but who cares. The crab said it all.

Yes, we did have desserts.

The list is reasonable, though I only had room for some quite special Cheshire farmhouse ice-cream (£3.95) while Mark stuck his neck out and asked for Eton Mess (£5.95) – a combination of meringue, biscuit, fruit, cream and ice cream.

“Hmmmm,” was the groan from across the table.

The wait at the start had evidently been worth it.

Pastarazzi, 29 Grosvenor Street, Chester

Tel: 01244 400029.

Open: Monday-Saturday Noon-midnight/ Sunday Noon-10pm.

The Bill: £66.20 with a bottle of Pinot Grigio.

Parking: Easy. Small car park attached to restaurant, massive car park at Chester Castle.

Ambience: Relaxed setting in a forgotten Victorian Gothic mansion

Service: Excellent and attentive if slow.

Value for money: Expensive.

Disabled access: Not good. Steps in and out. Bar and toilets up one floor and down two flights.