Updated 12:42am 1 May 2012

Spire, Church Road, Liverpool

It was an intriguing dish, but unfortunately proved that just because various ingredients are nice on their own doesn’t mean that they fit together. I enjoyed it, in a sort of comfort food kind of way, but it wasn’t something I would order again.

Spire itself was much better put together, with bare brick walls, simple wooden tables and fresh white napkins. Modern art brightens the restaurant and the wine is served in those giant glasses that make you think you’ve only drunk a few sips when you’ve actually had half the bottle.

It’s an intimate, cosy place without seeming overcrowded.

Although the restaurant is fairly small, the wine cellar must surely be five times its size, judging by the extensive wine list. Every taste and pocket seems to be catered for, from a house Chardonnay for £11.95 a bottle to Californian Cabernet Sauvignon at £85.95.

At £14.95, our choice of Gavi di Gavi “La Battistina”, was very reasonable.

Between bread and olive oil, amuses- bouche and two courses, we were far too full to try dessert, which was a shame because the sweet menu was filled with delicious-sounding dishes.

I was particularly tempted by the apple and vanilla samosa with vanilla ice cream and butterscotch sauce (£5.10), while Paul fancied the baked creme brulee banoffee style (£5).

Instead, we agreed to return on another day and next time skip the starter.

Only, we’ll have to remember to book.

Spire, 1 Church Road, Liverpool

Tel: 0151 734 5040

Menu: High-quality traditional dishes

Decor: Minimalist but cosy

Service: Very friendly but not rushed

Value: Good

The bill: £55.10, including a bottle of wine

lauradavis@dailypost.co.uk

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