I chose the vodka tomato bisque (£3.95), enhanced with chive crème fraîche, while Mark went for the chicken livers (£5.50). While waiting, we ordered some tear and share bread (£1.95) which arrived with a range of dips – the olive oil and balsamic vinegar were both quite excellent.

My soup was smooth but tangy, the kind which leaves the taste buds tingling, though the vodka was barely evident. The crème fraîche added to both the texture and the taste but unlike double cream didn’t make the soup overly rich.

Selecting a main course was more of a challenge.

Pizzas and pasta sounded really rather ordinary, so we scanned what was on offer from the steakhouse or the oven.

They are proud to proclaim that all the beef is 21-day well-hung Welsh black stock – nothing but the best. They’ve even got Kobe steak, that Japanese delicacy weighing in at £34.95 a steak. But there’s also salmon in “paper”, a fish steak sealed in a “paper” bag with herbs, spices and chive cream sauce, sausage cassoulet or double-baked soufflé.

Mark ordered crispy sea bass (£13.95) which was cooked in tempura batter and served with chunky chips and a mint pea confit. “Excellent, melt-in-the-mouth fish,” he said with the confit an inspired partner.

I ordered Bermudan bouillabaisse (£19.95), which included lobster, mussels, clams, shrimps and snapper in a rich broth.

It’s a challenge to eat but the lobster was truly special, as was the snapper. The other shellfish were slightly disappointing but the broth was rich and full of tomato and herb flavours.

I am glad I ordered some chunky chips, if only to soak up that excellent liquor.

And all that led to the worst decision of the night – to pass on the desserts. Ginger scented crème brûlée with shortbread biscuits sounded so tempting, but it would have been sheer gluttony.

We were suitably impressed by the quality of food, the prompt, polite and efficient service and the eccentricity of the surroundings. Liverpool’s never seen its like before, and it richly deserves to succeed.

Circo, Britannia Pavilion, Albert Dock, Liverpool (0151 709 7097)

Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 10am-1am; Friday-Saturday 10am-2am; Sunday 10am-12.30am.

Ambience: Fun and friendly and refreshingly different.

Service: Prompt and efficient.

Value for money: Reasonable.

Disabled access: Lots of stairs to toilets and no lifts evident. Also lots of steps to negotiate from car parks.

Parking: Adequate, but bear in mind the Albert Dock can get crowded.

The Bill, including wine: £68.15.