Emma Johnson takes a bite out of the Big Apple without setting foot outside Liverpool
My husband, meanwhile, in some odd reversal of appetites, was toying with rather healthier options, including pan fried salmon (£8.95) and wild seafood risotto of clam, prawn, crab and smoked salmon infused with saffron (£8.95).
Eventually, he chose the marginally more calorific Sicilian chicken linguini with Mortadella sausage (£7.50).
There were no starters as such, but the dishes on the lunch lights section made obvious appetisers so we ordered one home-made paté with melba toast and spiced New England apple chutney (£3.95) for me and the Chinatown BBQ Peking pork spring roll (£4.95), for him.
Unfortunately, the delay with the drinks was repeated with the food. However, when it did arrive (at least 20 minutes after we ordered) things immediately looked up.
My paté was light, foamy and richly flavoured while the chutney was excellent. In fact, my only complaint would be the one I always have with paté starters – not enough bread.
There were no complaints from my husband over the spring roll which was bursting with filling.
Unlike our starters, the main courses arrived swiftly. Although, as soon as they did, I regretted the starter. My burger was huge and I had to take it apart to stand any chance of getting my mouth around it. Still, the 12oz monster pattie was one of the best burgers I have ever tasted. Moist, tender, pinkish inside and utterly gristle-free, it beat some steaks I have eaten. Mind you, half of it ended up on my husband’s plate, as I just could not finish it.
The fantastic fat, hand-cut chips went the same way, with him proclaiming them to be the best chips he had eaten in years.
Not that his Sicilian chicken linguine had been disappointing. He described the sauce as just spicy enough and said the mortadella sausage added a good earthy depth to the dish.
After that orgy of meat and carbs, dessert was sadly out of the question. Although I have to admit, a New York cheesecake would have been a fitting finale.
THE James Monro, 69 Tithebarn Street, Liverpool. 0151 236 9700.
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