THE name never did do justice to the 19th-century grandeur that meets you at 62, Castle Street, writes Emma Pinch.
Intrigued, I went for the latter, pan fried king prawns and sushi flavoured risotto (£6.95), while, in similarly daring mood, my friend opted for the cream of sweetcorn soup, with chorizo and grilled tiger prawn (£4.50).
Ensconced with our drinks – Pino Grigio San Antonio at £4.75 per glass – we had a chance to look around us.
We were ushered to the split-level dining part, up a few steps at the side of the bar. It’s done out in glamorous dark shades, with dark silky drapes and dark wood tables and chairs. A screen decorated with velvet Baroque squirls separated us from the back of the bar behind us, and another protected us from a side drinking area.
The menu was capacious; the siting of the dining area made it seem less so.
My risotto came attractively presented with fat, juicy prawns and a verdant mound of risotto begging to be explored. The sushi element turned out to be tendrils of Nori seaweed and cucumber, but distinctively Japanese. The sweetcorn soup was sunshine in a bowl with the chorizo in a smooth red dollop to be squirled around.
For my main, I chose pork belly, crushed butternut squash and tomato and chorizo chutney (£12.95). Again, the presentation was beautiful, and I was particularly impressed with the vegetables, often an afterthought next to the main event. Matchstick slivers of carrot and cabbage came tightly wrapped, spring roll style, in a cabbage leaf, seasoned to perfection. The sweetness of the butternut squash was balanced by something with a citrussy zing. And the slow-roasted pork belly was silky smooth, with the intriguing chorizo paste making a welcome return. Gorgeous.
You could taste the ground steak used to construct my friend’s towering Merchant’s smokey beef burger with bacon and Emmental cheese, served with chunky chips and spiced onion rings (£10.50). Lean, flavoursome and light years away from its processed pub grub cousin, it could just have done with a bit more lubrication to help it go down.
After a second or two protesting no we couldn’t possibly, we both succumbed to a slab of double chocolate brownie with malt ice-cream with two spoons – provided happily by the friendly staff. Almost fondanty in texture and generously nutty, the brownie battled with my main for highlight of the meal.
Offering a cornucopia of crowd pleasers, Merchants offers excellent quality food and fair prices. I hope it continues to find room for the adventurous stuff, too.
MERCHANTS Bar and Restaurant, 62, Castle Street (12 noon to 10pm). Tel: 0151 702 7897
