Vicki Kellaway owes the chef an apology at one of the city’s newest restaurants – The Noble House

THERE is something ostentatious about eating your dinner from a giant skewer suspended in the middle of your table.

But that’s the fashionable way to order your meat, or your fish, or your meat and fish at The Noble House, and there were three other couples eating exactly the same way.

This mains-to-share – “The Vine” – is a long metal skewer suspended elegantly from a vine shaped handle.

It’s a clever way to bring something unusual to this new venture on Brunswick Street – opposite the formidable Restaurant Bar and Grill – and it works.

The Noble House, named after the experiment of banning alcohol across America in the 1920s, is still carving out its atmosphere.

The decor is nice enough; red leather booths and dark wood tables, a huge chainmail chandelier and pleasantly low lighting.

But it was gently humming rather than bustling on a Friday night and, from the people behind Alma de Cuba, you would expect the theme to be a little more overt.

At first glance, the food looked classic rather than creative and the wine list was enormous. Fortunately, our waitress was friendly.

She chose a beautiful Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – the Errázuriz 1870 Peñuelas Block for those in the know (£5 for a large glass).

We weren’t offered bread because bread and oils is a course and costs £2.95.

At least that means you’re not tempted to spoil your appetite. The service was prompt but we were ravenous when my goats’ cheese (£5.95) and his risotto (£6.95) arrived.

Mine was a tasty tower of goats cheese and rocket served between layers of juicy tomato with a sweet pepper sauce on the side.

The boyfriend’s risotto looked like a pizza – a juicy shallot-infused rice base with tomatoes, cherry mozzarella and herbs scattered on top.

“Oh no,” he said.