Liza Williams soaks up the ambience, and a wondeful treacle tart, at Chester’s Joseph Benjamin restaurant

THE top end of Chester’s Northgate Street is like a feisty older relative, clinging on against the tide of chain stores and supermarkets.

There is a greengrocer, a butcher, a posh cheese shop – you can even buy an ornate hat and a wedding dress if the mood takes you.

Virtually half this end of the street used to be dominated by a huge branch of the bakers Sayers, which interrupted the rare independent row of traders.

But since the Wright brothers Joseph and Benjamin (food aficionados, not plane pioneers) expanded their restaurant business from a small corner position to the larger Sayers plot, this character has been further strengthened.

The eatery has been growing in popularity since it first opened in 2006, so it is no wonder the duo decided to take the plunge.

We received a very warm welcome on our arrival from a man I later learned was Ben Wright himself.

He presented us with a drinks menu that offered a variety of delicious sounding aperitifs, but we decided to quench our thirst with a quick beer before the meal.

It was a Thursday night and most of the tables were taken, which is always a good sign.

The business is centred around a well-stocked deli, selling a huge array of tasty treats, including meats, breads and cheeses.

It is hard to believe that the newer part of the premises used to be a high street baker’s, and the duo have completely transformed the space into an atmospheric and intimate restaurant.

We went through to our table in a lovely spot, right by the window.

The wine list was extensive and offered a total of 53 bottles – 18 of them available by the glass.

I ordered a glass of the Chilean Los Vilos Cabernet Sauvignon (£3.95), which was beautifully soft, with a strong tang of blackcurrant fruit, and a distinct richness.

The menu offered a well-rounded choice of dishes – four starters and four mains, with added traditional favourites known as JB staples and platters.

To start, my boyfriend opted for the delicately flavoured parsnip and sage soup (£4.20), which he said got better with every mouthful.

It avoided being too sweet and claggy, which can be the danger with the root vegetable.

I plumped for the smoked haddock, black pudding and quails eggs (£6.80) which was a wise choice.

The fish melted in the mouth, and the black pudding was soft, with a beautiful flavour. The creamy and glistening quails eggs complemented the dish perfectly.

“Did they know you were coming?” my boyfriend joked, impressed by the friendly welcome and attentive service. But, looking around, it was obvious every table was getting the same attention, which was never overbearing.

For my main, I was tempted by the range of deli tasting plates (£10.50), offering a selection of produce from the counter.

But I chose roast leg of lamb with slow cooked lamb rib, warm puy lentil salad and caper dressing (£16.50).

The slices of lamb were pleasingly presented in a circle on the plate and the meat was beautifully cooked.

The rib added interest to the dish and the lentil salad lifted it, preventing it from being too heavy.

But I couldn’t help getting food envy every time another diner was presented with the veal special, serviced with suet pudding and what looked like delicious onion rings.

I also thought the lamb could have benefited from an extra element, maybe instead of some of the meat, which was a very generous potion. I should have probably ordered a potato side.

My boyfriend ordered the half rotisserie chicken with gravy, chips and aioli (£12.50)– one of the JB Staples which also included Chris Austin’s Chester Sausages with champ and white onion & cider sauce (£10.50).

His beautifully golden and plump chicken came with a mountain of chunky hand cut chips and pots of tasty sauce.

He heartily tucked in and said the chicken was the tenderest meat he had eaten in a long time.

After his big portion, the boyfriend was too full for a pudding, but I thought I could still manage to squeeze one in (now I was glad I had held off on the potatoes).

For me, it was a choice between the chocolate brownie and the treacle tart, served with an apple compote and vanilla ice cream (both £4.95).

I opted for the tart, and it was an absolute treat. Sticky and sweet with a delightfully thin, crisp pastry base. The sharp compote lifted the dish and stopped it becoming too sickly, and the ice cream was rich and smooth – a great contrast in texture to the tart.

And on that sweet note we called the evening to an end.

Whether you want a special evening meal, a quick but delicious lunch or some morsels from the deli, Joseph Benjamin is the perfect place.