But, the existentialist in me cries out against joining the multitude of worthy types who will be sporting a temporary adornment for a truly wonderful cause.

It is this inner demon which often gets me into trouble, it pushes me far from the masses and demands that I create a world of my own volition, my own desires and not follow trend or ever be compelled to drift, quietly, into a consensual abyss and thus lose my steely quest for individuality.

It is this virulent spirit that stands forward whenever it is time for me to choose a wine for a specific meal. ‘White wine with fish!’ cries middle England, ‘Cabernet with steak’ shout the stuffed shirts from seedy gentleman’s clubs in Soho backstreets.

Nonsense…all of it.

I was recently engaged in preparing a menu with some top plonk , a fine dinner in honour of a fine gentleman’s 65th birthday.

Living on a remote and beautiful Caribbean island obviously has some good points – today I was making cocktails from various bobbins plucked from trees and bushes in my backyard and on Monday we’ll sail the short journey to an even more remote island for a spot of fishing, lots of drinking and no doubt some ill-advised bonfire making.

That said, the remoteness of the place can make it difficult to get one’s mitts on some half decent tucker, which is why I was doubly amazed when our rather brilliant chefs, Mark and Cesar of the Captain’s Table provided us with four stunning courses which really brought out some serious flavours from some top wines.

Booting off with some excellent onion soup we sparked open the Louis Jadot Pouilly Fuisse, 2006, after recovering from that stunning little combo we barreled through some snapper ceviche and a cheeky swig of Kim Crawford’s amazing Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

The challenge was all in the main course – stuffed pork loin with pine nuts, spinach and a dark and sexy Bordelaise sauce.

I could think of one or two sturdy, German whites that could possibly handle the big flavours but decided to go large and head towards Australia and South Africa reach for the big guns.

I’ve been banging on about Cape Mentelle for as long as I’ve been writing this column and once again, Rob Mann and the chaps didn’t let us down.

His very cleverly priced Cabernet/Merlot blend was as gigantic as usual and although it murdered the pork a little, it did a cheeky little tango with the sauce and danced around our gobs like Travolta and that mad bird.

The old friend from Margaret River was a tough act to follow, so, with lips all of a quiver, we embraced an evocative sounding little lady called The Gypsy.

A South African Grenache/Shiraz blend with more firepower than a Kentucky wedding. At first it was a little too boisterous, jumping and shouting all about the place, demanding rather than earning our attention.

A little later into the evening she settled down, opened up, and treated our lucky palates to a symphony of beautiful berries and a really sexy finish, leaving a lingering heat and a distinct lack of regret. Marvelous stuff.

It managed to knock the spots off the Cape Mentelle and, my cohorts, that doesn’t happen often. It was a fine dinner, with even finer company, a challenging menu and some superlative wine.

Be bold when choosing wine with food, glory in the adventure of it and look forward to the rewards.

March forward on the world of wine and gastronomy with pride and lustful design, my fellow warriors, and plant flags of love and glory where once lay fields of loveless marriages and ill-tempered virtue.