Sheldrakes, Lower Heswall, Wirral

Feb 24 2006 By Laura Davis, Daily Post

THERE are few restaurants in the world that are worth visiting just for the scenery. The Jules Verne at the top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris has to be one, as does the Harbour View in Sydney.

The view from Sheldrakes, across the River Dee to the Welsh hills, may well be humbler from than either of these, but it is one of the venue's most unique characteristics just the same.

Formerly a sailing club, this charming bar/restaurant has a terrace where, on warmer days, guests can sit sipping Pimms or nibbling tapas while watching tiny sailing boats bob past.

As our visit took place on a winter's evening we were denied the view, but the streetlights twinkled at us like stars from across the Dee.

Each wooden table was topped with an oil lamp, creating a cosy, bistro atmosphere. Strings of fair-ylights were twisted round the windows and lush green plants towered up to the ceiling by the inside walls.

The setting was entirely appropriate for a family dinner, particularly for our family as my father is obsessed with all things marine - tides, boats, shanties. My parents have recently moved to Heswall so the meal was part celebration, part exploration of the local area.

The menu was a la carte, with separate prices for each dish, but you could also choose two courses for a minimum of £12.95 and three for a minimum of £14.95 (excludes Saturdays). Any supplementary charges were clearly marked to the left of each item.

For a starter my Mum and I chose the Cumberland Sausage (£4.25 a la carte), sliced into thick pieces and mixed with mushrooms and onions in a red wine gravy. The fresh rosemary added just enough interest to keep the flavours from being too heavy.

It was served in a small skillet, which was a nice touch.

My Dad was delighted with his Warm Spring Salad (£5.50 a la carte), a combination of roasted pancetta, toasted walnuts and pear crisps garnished with a quail's egg and a Cashel blue cheese dressing. He enjoyed the mixture of tastes and found the dressing flavoursome without being over-bearing.