Francs Restaurant, Cuppin Street, Chester

Dec 21 2007 Liverpool Daily Post

Jane Gallagher returns to a French restaurant 16 years after her first visit – and is delighted

SOME 16 years or so ago when my eldest son was a babe in arms, we popped into what was then a rarity, a family friendly restaurant with great food.

We were on a shopping trip to Chester and chanced upon the ramshackle building which had an auberge feel about it.

Something about the rickety building, the smell of the food and the warmth of the lights on a dark wintry afternoon called us in.

We had no previous booking and the restaurant was heaving but still they found a place for us at the inn.

The restaurant was of course, Francs.

We have friends who live in France and the atmosphere was not unlike the genial roadside hostelries where we had spent many happy times.

Many years on and with the disappearance of the French franc I wondered if Chester’s Franc would survive the rigours of the modern dining experience.

We had heard that the restaurant had moved and worried that the ambience may not be the same, but when we returned to Chester recently for a romantic pre-Christmas break, booking into Francs was top of the to-do list.

I had read that, as well as moving, the bistro had recently enjoyed a £250,000 revamp and, as the taxi drew up to the trendy quarter of Chester, I hardly recognised this now stylish restaurant.

While the rustic theme has been adhered to, it has definitely moved up market when it comes to the lush interiors. Artfully exposed beams and perfectly polished floors evoked a slick rather than homely atmosphere.

But I was glad to see the warm welcome was still very much in evidence.

It was early on a Saturday evening but the eaterie was buzzing. There was a nice mixture of ages and backgrounds. Some foreign tourists, locals and young couples (like us, ahem!) hoping to enjoy a pleasant meal.

After all the restaurant promises to be the place where “fun is taken seriously”. But could the food match up to those long held memories, which have probably intensified in flavour as the years have rolled past?

The proof of the pudding was yet to come.

We were shown to our seats close to the restaurant, where a professional waitress who exuded calm competence took our orders and smoothly uncorked a bottle of Cote Du Rhone (£13).

Smooth and rich, the wine prepared the palate for the pleasures to come. No sooner had we made our choices than the food appeared at our tables, served with a smile.

My starter, Champignons Provencal (£4.25) adhered to the rustic theme. But the portion would have been enough to feed a peasant and his family for weeks.

A large bread roll had been carved out and filled with a rich tomato sauce and small flavoursome mushrooms.

The sauce had a lovely depth thanks to the garlic and basil but I had to admit defeat after half a portion.

My husband’s starter, black pudding or “Boudin Noir” (£4.25), as the French call it, arrived with chorizo and garlic. The apple accompaniment softened the richness of the flavours and provided a hearty appetizer.

My main course was the traditional French dish Bouillabaisse (£12.95). Meaty mussels swam in a herby tomato broth alongside king prawns, salmon and tuna. Notes of fennel and orange surfaced at intervals providing a pleasurable meal to look back on over the next 16 or so years.

Sadly, my husband’s main course was a slight disappointment. Usually a breast man, he was profoundly disappointed when a leg turned up on his eagerly awaited duck dish.

At £11.95, he had expected a large portion and was a little disappointed to discover he had to order vegetables in addition although his coarse mash (£2.95) was tasty enough to soften the blow.

Having polished off the whole of my Bouillabaisse and half the enormous starter, I could find no room for a pudding. Not so my husband (he of the disappointing duck), who opted for his favourite, Creme Brulee (£4.45).

The smooth cream vanilla custard was countered by a zingy passionfruit topping and,when washed down with a double espresso (£3.25) and large brandy (£2.75), provided a fine ending to the French dining experience.

Well, was our experience worth waiting 16 years for?

While the interiors bore no resemblance to its previous incarnation the principles of good fresh French cuisine and a warm and friendly welcome were still very much alive and well.

The Franc may be dead but long live Francs!

Francs Restaurant, 14, Cuppin Street, Chester

Tel: 01244 317952, www.francs.co.uk

Interior: Rustic glamour

Food: Gallic gastronomy

Value for money: On the pricey side at the weekend but Monday looks great value, offering a selection of dishes form its original 1987 menu.

The bill: £62.35.

Service: Friendly but professional.

Disabled Access?: Yes restaurant and toilets on ground floor with dining rooms on two further floors.