Impressive menu worth waiting for

May 9 2008 by Our Correspondent, Liverpool Daily Post

Glyn Mon Hughes samples adventurous food at a busy city centre hide-away

WE ALMOST decided to rename Chester’s trendy restaurant Got Wine! – ‘I’d Like to Get Some Wine Some Time’ after our first contact with the venue courted disaster.

When we first tried to book, we phoned off and on for two days before we got an answer. Then, when we arrived, the enthusiastic and welcoming maitre d’ told us the restaurant was fully booked but that our reservation was for a table in the wine bar.

Nobody, however, told us that you had to book for either the restaurant or the brasserie.

That was, for us, not an option as that Friday evening was busy and we’d not have been able to savour the meal, rather risking plates being knocked to the ground by the comings and goings of Cestrian nightlife.

It was third time lucky, however, when we managed to get a table in the restaurant – not that there was much competition, as we were the only diners.

A party of 16 had, apparently, cancelled at the last moment – hardly fair for an establishment which only has 36 covers.

The restaurant itself is in a converted mill – with some of the workings forming a decorative feature. Though the tables might feel a little cramped when the restaurant is busy, they are impeccably laid, with sharply starched linen and gleaming glass.

Predictably, the wine list is extensive and at least 14 wines are available by the 250ml glass.

While Europe is dominant, there are some interesting offerings from other parts of the world, notably some all too rarely seen Lebanese creations and a petite syrah from Mexico.

We chose a light and fruity white from the Bekaa Valley, in Lebanon (£17.25).

Mosaic White 2006 is a blend of viognier, vermentino and chardonnay grapes and, as it turned out, suited our menu choices perfectly. “I’m not always keen on dry wines,” said Mark, “but this is certainly a burst of flavours and very refreshing.”

Then there was the pressing question of selecting something from the small but tantalising dinner menu. The menu comes at a fixed price – three courses costs £28.95 and four £33.95.

All produce is locally sourced and there’s an element of a tasting menu about the skilfully selected dishes on offer.

Bread comes first: I selected a wholemeal bread with poppy seeds while Mark had the version with sesame seeds.

We also each had a small piece of white bread with mozzarella and olives.

An amuse bouche then appeared: a small “torpedo” of smoked salmon wrapped around cream cheese and served on caramelised red onions. And then the problem of what to have reared its head.

Starters included pressed guinea fowl and leek with a tasting of beetroot, or creamed wild mushroom, asparagus and tarragon on chilli and spring onion crepes and even pan-fried skate wing with a watercress and orange salad and port reduction.

Mark, obviously with fish on the brain, asked for mille feuille of Scottish smoked salmon, potato and cucumber with caviar and rocket.

He found it light and refreshingly tasty, but wondered why he had opted for more smoked salmon following the previous little creation.

I went for the chilled lobster and thyme custard with bouillabaisse and chard leaves.

This was truly excellent, the subtle lobster flavours really brought out by the thyme.

Main courses, too, should satisfy most tastes. There’s a rather traditional sounding herb and olive crusted rack of lamb, seasonal potatoes and petit onions, or roast pork with Italian ham, black pudding boudin, served with salsify and spinach.

I spotted loin of venison with horseradish celeriac, fried beetroot and a chocolate jus.

Most people screw up their eyes in horror when you mention serving meat with chocolate sauce, but there was no sweetness in the chocolate. Instead, its bitterness complemented the small but exquisitely cooked venison.

Mark ordered baked halibut which was served with bok choi, pea puree, tomato cream and a herb-infused foam. Cooked to perfection, he described it as “a work of art of a plate.”

I rounded the meal off with warm fruit soup, served with vanilla tortellinis and sorbet.

Save for macaroni served as a school dinner pudding, I’d never considered pasta as a dessert and yet this was different.

You expect tortellini to be savoury, yet these were sweet.

And the soup was warm and full of fruits.

It was also served with some quite delightful – and surely highly naughty – vanilla ice cream.

Mark chose an enticing white chocolate and pistachio brulee with passion fruit ice cream, which brought on some favourable noises from across the table.

Waitress Jennifer was hugely attentive and knowledgeable about the food on offer, while the food itself is adventurous, impeccably served and a real treat.

I’m glad we persevered in our quest to visit what could well turn out to be Chester’s best restaurant.

Got Wine! 10, Commonhall Street, Chester, CH1 2BJ.

Tel. 01244 313001

Opening hours: Monday-Wednesday 11am-11.30pm; Thursday 11am-midnight; Friday, Saturday 1am-1am; Sunday 12noon-10.30pm.

The bill: £93.67

Parking: Mainly on-street

Disabled access: Restricted. Restaurant up three flights, toilets up two.

Value for money: Pricey but you’re paying for a quality experience.

Ambience: Relaxed.

Service: Friendly and attentive