A land of riches and kindness

Nov 24 2007 by Frank Corless, Liverpool Daily Post

Frank Corless visits the north half of Cyprus that doesn’t officially exist

WE HAD seen so much natural beauty it was hard to believe that the best of the rugged Karpaz Peninsular in Cyprus was yet to come.

In mile after mile of virtually deserted roads and tiny villages, it had lived up to its billing. On either side, herds of goats and wild donkeys nibbled at the scorched earth. Some tried to find any sort of shelter from the blistering mid-day sun.

There were tantalizing glimpses of the Mediterranean behind hill-sized sand dunes. Birds swooped and soared above.

Finally, and suddenly, on the last lap of the three-hour mini-bus marathon, it was there; the three-mile stretch of the aptly named Golden Sands beach, the “special place” that we had travelled so far to see

And the collective chorus of approval from the members of our little expedition said it all. The sky and the sea were so incredibly blue. The deserted beach, claimed to be one of the most beautiful in the world (and who am I to deny it), swept away into the distant heat haze.

Blissfully peaceful, and totally unspoilt, it was easy to see why this haven for rare flora and fauna, as well as wild life, such as green turtles, lizards, and chameleons, wins pride of place in the guide books.

It was difficult to drag ourselves away, but our final destination lay a few miles further on, at the very tip of the Cyprus panhandle.

The Apostolos Andreas monastery, once the Lourdes of Cyprus, is still a place where pilgrims seek cures for their afflictions.

Among those who have lit candles are sports and soccer teams who prayed for success. Bizarrely, when their wishes came true, some of them returned to the monastery to leave their trophies next to the altar. And there they stand there today, as shiny as the moment they were presented.

No doubt, down the years, many prayers have been said in this sacred place for a solution to what has become known as the “Cyprus Problem”. But, as yet, they remain unanswered.

While the Greek side of the island in the south is part of the EU, the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, to use its full title, is recognized by only Turkey, and doesn’t officially exist.

Since April 2003, however, the north-south border has been opened across the Green Line which separates the two communities, and there are now five crossing points, making it easier for everyone to get around the whole island.

It has also provided an alternative route for holidaymakers who fly into the south and travel by taxi to their hotels or homes in the north.

Partition is the undoubted shadow on the dazzling smile of North Cyprus. It is most evident in Nicosia (or Lefkosa), the world’s only remaining divided capital, where fence posts topped with barbed wire mark out the middle of no man’s land. Long abandoned buildings, some pockmarked by gunfire, are clearly visible.

Yet life goes on. No more so than in the restored Buyuk Khan (Great Inn). Dating back to 1572, it was once used as a prison by the British. Now a thriving hub of gift shops and bistros, it has a laid back, easy atmosphere.

The division is evident, too, in the remarkably agreeable walled city of Famagusta (or Gazimagusa) where a “ghost town” lies in a United Nations buffer zone. From the terrace of the Palm Beach hotel in Famagusta, we peered across a few hundred yards of beach to a crescent bay of hotels, every one empty and deserted since the 1970’s.

Agreement between north and south still seems nowhere in sight but, while politicians wrestle for an answer, North Cyprus gets on with making ends meet. And it does it so well.

Warmed by the sun for more than 300 days a year, it has a heritage and culture stretching down the centuries with just too many castles, churches, mosques, and ancient ruins to take in.

The ancient Roman city of Salamis, only yards from a long stretch of safe and deserted beach, took some exploring in 40 degree temperatures, but it is a special memory. Destroyed by an Arab invasion in 674AD, its open-air theatre, headless marble statues, and majestic marble columns brings history to life, and there is still much more to be excavated.

The ruins are just a small part of a stunning landscape stretching across the whole of North Cyprus. There are endless citrus groves and olive orchards, vast plains, hundreds of miles of beaches, wonderful coastlines, and sleepy mountain villages.

My favourite was Bellapais and its magnificent Medieval abbey. Its courtyards and corridors afforded shade from the sun while providing awe-inspiring views of mountains and the coast.

Literally yards from the abbey’s entrance, a lunchtime coffee at a restaurant nestling under the branches of the Tree of Idleness, immortalized by Lawrence Durrell in his book Bitter Lemons, was very welcome.

In virtually every conversation we had with fellow UK holidaymakers, two words – time warp – were used to describe North Cyprus and its rustic charms. It’s true that it has one foot firmly in the past, but the growing property market is just one example of a dramatic change already under way.

In its wake has come swish new hotels sprinkled along the coast, and a new championship golf course. The challenge now is to protect the environment.

Not withstanding its troubles, North Cyprus is a land blessed with a treasure chest of riches made extra-special by the heart-warming kindness and generosity of its people. It was sad to say goodbye.

Frank Corless’ trip to North Cyprus was arranged by the North Cyprus Tourism Centre (website: www.northcyprus.cc and email: info@northcyprus.cc).Flights to North Cyprus by Cyprus Turkish Airlines (0207 930 4851 or e-mail cta@atbtconnect.com) have to make a brief stop in mainland Turkey, without a change of aircraft.The Jasmine Court Hotel and Casino in Kyrenia is available through a range of tour operators a list of which can be obtained from the North Cyprus Tourism Centre’s website.

NEXT WEEK: Day Six visits South Cyprus.