The land of eternal spring

May 24 2008 by Laura Davis, Liverpool Daily Post

Frank Corless becomes a fully paid-up member of the Tenerife Appreciation Society

EVEN after more than 50 years of mass tourism, there are few things that cause division among some holidaymakers than the charms – or otherwise – of Tenerife.

Around 2m of us make the 2,000-mile journey every year, making it one of the most popular destinations for tourists. But there are others who echo the feelings of a friend who told me: “It’s just not my scene – I really don’t fancy it.”

What is it that causes such antipathy? Maybe it’s a throwback to the days when resorts such as Playa de las Americas had a bit of an image problem, and the island was, mistakenly, assumed to be a playground for boozy tourists and timeshare touts. Maybe it was the over-building on a grand scale; the concrete “canyons” of hotels and apartments that swallowed up a lot of the coastline, mainly in the south-west.

Whatever the reasons, I know where my loyalties lie. I am a self-confessed fan; a full-blown, fully paid-up member of the “Tenerife Admiration Society”.

And, although tourism figures dipped slightly last year, new “members” are still signing up.

They include Darren Richards, who sold his online dating agency for £30m. His fancy to invest some of the hefty wedge could have taken him anywhere in the world, but he chose Tenerife to buy two luxury villas, an apartment, and two bars.

OK, I am not in his financial bracket (I wish), but at least we have something in common. So, let’s dwell on the two most important factors that put us on the same wavelength.

First and foremost, it’s the weather. Known as the “land of eternal spring”, the island is warm and sunny all year.

Accessibility is another big plus. Most airports in the UK offer relatively cheap flights to the island, day or night.

There is a long list of extra benefits, not least of which is Tenerife’s compactness and amazing natural contrasts, be it the greenery and banana plantations of the north, or the arid landscape of the south.

But the main feature we have noticed in regular visits over the years is that Tenerife has slowly, but noticeably, started to change.

Just as we have matured, so also has the island.

Yes, “cheap and cheerful” is still available in abundance. And that’s good because it is a big factor in value-for-money holidays. But, thanks to on-going efforts by administrators, hoteliers and tourism chiefs, the most popular resorts have a classier, more sophisticated feel, with an emphasis on quality.

Much of the improvement is on show in the swish hotels that have sprung up in places such as Fanabe and Costa Adeje. Aiming to appeal to growing numbers of tourists who want better standards to match their affluent lifestyles, the hotels are the last word in quality, comfort and style.

Catering for more discerning, and well-heeled customers is not the only difference, however. The environment, too, is experiencing a continuing “makeover”, no more so than on the Paseo Maritimo promenade, better known as the Geranium Walk. It has been around for so long, continually expanding, that it would be easy to take it for granted.

But, by any standards, it is a remarkable construction.

Over 10km-long, the prom stretches from Los Cristianos, and then through Playa de las Americas, and on to the edge of pretty La Caleta, famous for its fish restaurants.

It’s a challenging hike, particularly after a hearty breakfast, but one made special by the vista across the Atlantic.

On the shore side of the walk, there is an endless array of restaurants, coffee bars, apartments, hotels and shops. But they are part of the fun of promenading, particularly when the surrounding flower show is so special.

Apart from the ubiquitous geraniums, there are exotic shrubs, palm trees, and flower-filled borders. Well-placed benches, and impeccably manicured grassy knolls, provide rest for weary limbs.

It’s a colourful ambience, a tribute to the Spanish workmen and gardeners who toiled in the sun for years to bring it about.

Tenerife has never been short of leisure facilities for families. Now, they are bigger and better than ever. The world-famous Loro Parque, originally a parrot paradise, has expanded into an animal and wildlife extravaganza. And the latest “kid on the block”, Siam Park, billed as the biggest themed aquatic park in Europe, opens this month.

No self-respecting quality tourist destination could be without top-drawer golf courses. They are a big magnet, and Tenerife now has nine.

If you seek culture, the superb world- class opera house, opened only last year in the island’s historic capital, Santa Cruz, is an architectural triumph and well worth a visit.

All of these attractions are additional bonuses to the “real” Tenerife, places that have never needed to adapt or change with the times – the sleepy mountain villages, tranquil hiking trails, and the alluring cafe culture in so many picturesque towns.

In the north, the beautiful resort of Puerto de la Cruz, fringed by banana plantations, and arguably boasting the island’s best visitor attractions, has always been a favourite of mine. It was here that our daughter was voted “Miss World” by our fellow hotel guests. She was only two at the time, mind you.

Tenerife’s glory, however, is Mount Teide, at 12,188ft the highest mountain in Spain, part of Teide National Park, which was recently awarded World Heritage status.

Don’t try climbing to the peak on foot unless you are fit and agile. Best advice is to ride a cable car for the final 1,000 feet to the summit and – on a clear day – take in the breathtaking views to the other islands in The Canaries.

We stayed at the impeccable Arona Gran Hotel, overlooking the busy harbour in Los Cristianos. Almost every room was booked and two- thirds of the guests had stayed there before, one of them on 30 occasions.

“We must be doing something right,” smiled Francisco Almeda Bosch, director of the highly successful Spring Hoteles group which owns the hotel.

The group has just opened its fifth hotel on the island, a testament to its faith in Tenerife’s future. And they are not the only believers. Just reflect on those bitterly cold winter days and, maybe, you too will join the “appreciation society”.

FRANK CORLESS paid £150 per night for himself and his wife, for a 10-day half-board stay at the Arona Gran. There is a 10% discount for internet booking, which requires credit or debit card details. The price also includes taxi from the airport to the hotel and return. For details, visit www.aronagrand.co.uk