The heart of beautiful Scotland

Aug 2 2008 by Frank Corless, Liverpool Daily Post

Frank Corless visits Pitlochry, an area of outstanding natural beauty

THE best of special holiday moments usually come from out of the blue. In my case, it was from out of a shade of light grey, so typical of our dismal summer.

It came after my wife and I enjoyed the trip to Queen’s View, in glorious Perthshire, overlooking darkly shimmering Loch Tummel with 3,547ft high Schiehallion – meaning Fairy Hill of the Caledonians – towering in the distance.

One of Scotland’s best known and best loved beauty spots, the vista was named after a visit made by Queen Victoria, although others claim it commemorates Queen Isabella, wife of Robert the Bruce, who ruled Scotland between 1306 and 1329.

Whoever is correct, it’s a stunning panorama, a sight fit for royals and commoners alike. But it will stay in my memory as much for another reason – the drive from the View’s visitor car park.

It wasn’t so much that the journey was short and relatively devoid of other traffic, although that did play a part. Or that our compact car was fit for purpose.

It was more a feeling of liberation, of being behind the wheel in one of the UK’s most beautiful locations with no worries of anyone being on our tail, or crowding the front bumper.

Twisting and tumbling under a majestic canopy of full-leafed trees, the road offered sudden and tantalising glimpses of the loch’s tranquil waters, and fields dotted with sheep and russet coloured cattle.

As the tarmac levelled out near Tummel Bridge, and then turned towards the splendid town of Aberfeldy, my wife caught a glimpse of red deer behind a hedgerow, and baby rabbits hopping through the lush grass. That’s the “see all” bonus of being a front seat passenger!

With the sun now finally breaking through, we stopped to take in yet another memorable outlook across the fields to Castle Menzies, the seat of the Chiefs of Clan Menzies, who gave shelter to Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1746.

Still owned by the Menzies Clan, the castle – built in the 1550s – has been removed and restored to its original condition.

Our magic moments passed all too quickly, but they were enough for us to re-discover long-forgotten joys of motoring.

Our holiday base was the turreted Scotland’s Hotel and Leisure Club, only yards from the main street in Pitlochry, an ideal location for getting out and about.

The old town has much to offer, and it is as warm and welcoming to weary visitors as it ever was – and that includes salmon.

Every year, thousands of them make a 5,000 mile journey from northern oceans before heading up Pitlochry’s picturesque River Tummel. The only way they can negotiate Pitlochry Dam, part of a hydro-electric scheme, is through a specially constructed “ladder” comprising 34 chambers which help them to swim into man-made Loch Fiskally on their way to spawn.

The ladder is a must for sightseers and is ranked among Scotland’s top six tourist attractions. It’s hardly surprising that a leaping salmon features on the town’s Welcome signs. As luck would have it, we didn’t see a single fish, salmon or otherwise.

The delights of Pitlochry, and the surrounding areas, are too many to mention. They range from hikes and walks through gorgeous countryside, to mountain biking, canoeing, golf, and – of course – fishing.

For the less energetic, the town has a good selection of shops, hotels, pubs and restaurants, some of them I reckon, a tad too pricey. There is no shortage of whisky distilleries to inspect, either in the town or not far away. There is even a tiny brewery at the colourful 300-year-old Moulin Inn where we enjoyed some our best value-for-money meals.

Pitlochry’s cultural highlight is the riverside Festival Theatre which, amazingly, presents up to eight different plays each week.

Historic towns such as Dunkeld – boasting a magnificent cathredal on the banks of the lovely River Tay – are all within easy reach.

Our favourite stop was at Blair castle, seat of the dukes and earls of Atholl for almost 740 years. Queen Victoria was a visitor in 1844.

Now run by a charitable trust, the castle – in a dramatic setting and packed with treasures from down the centuries – welcomes more visitors than any other open-to-the-public private house in Scotland. It’s not hard to understand why.

As we were leaving, a solitary piper played traditional Scottish tunes, the sound echoing across the castle’s manicured gardens and magnificent frontage.

The real beauty of Pitlochry, and Perthshire, however, is among the mountains, hills, and forested valleys where waterfalls and streams tumble into lochs and rivers. And where you just might enjoy driving...

BED and breakfast prices at Scotland’s Hotel and Leisure Club, Pitlochry, range from £50-£75 per person throughout the year. Luxury package including bed and breakfast with sparkling wine, chocolates and mineral water in room on arrival.

Activity packages including fishing, golf, white water rafting, abseiling, distillery visits and more from £89 per room per night (all with breakfast, price depends on activity). For more information on holidays in Scotland log on to www.visitscotland.com