Still work to do in the Western Isles

Nov 1 2008 Liverpool Daily Post

Gordon Barr finds plenty to praise – but also to criticise – on a return to his roots

YOU don’t have to ask me twice to pay a visit to the Western Highlands. It’s the land where I grew up and, despite wanting nothing more than to leave and sample the bright lights of the city when I was a child, these days, with age, the draw of the mountains, lochs and wildlife has seldom been stronger.

I hail from a village 12 miles outside of Oban, the capital of Argyll, and it was to the Oban Bay Hotel I ventured to catch up with family and revisit the places of old.

Oban Bay Hotel has been around since I can remember, but now part of the Crerar Hotels group, it is reinventing itself somewhat as a hotel and spa.

The rooms have been refurbished, and our suite had to have one of the best views you could wish for – naturally over Oban Bay. Not all of the rooms enjoy this, with many bedrooms in a newer building to the back of the hotel. Be sure to check when you are booking. Also be sure to request parking, as there is only limited availability on site.

The hotel’s attempts at reinvention succeed only to a certain point. We were “forced” to leave the hotel and venture out for a late-night walk on the Saturday because of the evening’s “entertainment” – a man and his guitar. There was no escaping him or his peculiar voice.

At the prices the Oban Bay charge, you do not expect something like this, and it is something the management do need to look at if it is to properly up its ante.

The same could be said of the foot of the stairs leading to the bedrooms, where staff dump their coats, trainers and bags – on full public show – before changing into their work uniforms. It is these little things that stop the hotel from becoming that little bit extra special. As for the spa, well, the hotel would benefit from proper changing rooms – I walked into a woman in full state of undress as the changing area was nothing short of a curtain (her husband was not well pleased).

The hot tub is small, but does offer lovely views over the bay, spoiled only by the smokers on the decking in front of it (not very health conscious for a spa).

And, last gripe, the foliage surrounding the hotel looks superb, until you discover it is plastic.

All of that said, we did thoroughly enjoy our stay at Oban Bay.

The food is superb, although prices can vary depending on what kind of booking you make.

One of its real benefits is the location. On the town’s esplanade, you are just a five-minute walk from the centre, but remain out of the hustle and bustle.

We spent a lot of time sitting on our room’s sofa looking out over the bay, watching the island ferries to and fro. It is so relaxing enjoying the uninterrupted Highland and island views.

Oban retains much of its traditional character, and from here you can catch the ferry to a host of Hebridean islands. But time should be spent in the town itself. Try out the fish and chips – or Scotch pies as they should be done.

Then there is McCaig’s Tower, which stands proudly like a Colosseum over the town’s bay.

Farther afield, Taynuilt, where I grew up, lies on the banks of Loch Etive. A stretch of water carved out of the former volcanic landscape by glaciers during the Ice Age, it extends southwest from Europe’s only seawater falls (the Falls of Lora) at Connel Bridge deep into the Highlands, two-thirds of the way to Glencoe.

For the hill walker, there are 13 Munros nearby.

Simply driving around the area is a treat in itself, and the villages of Benderloch, Barcaldine and Port Appin are well worth a visit.

As, too, is Easdale, where en route you cross a Bridge over the Atlantic. Depending on the season, you can enjoy a trip out on Sea.fari Adventures, where on motorised inflatable boats you can visit the Gulf of Corryvreckan, home of the world’s third- largest whirlpool.

You could never be bored with a trip to Argyll, and Oban Bay Hotel is certainly a good base for your journey. With a few improvements, as mentioned, it could easily be the best base.

OBAN Bay Hotel. Rooms have recently been restored. Spacious executive rooms and warm, cosy standard rooms are also available. Many enjoy stunning views.Rates (including breakfast) junior suite: £160 - £240, executive room: £135 - £215, standard room: £110 - £190, single occupancy of standard room: £70 - £110. Double and twin rooms can be booked online. However, call 0870 950 6273 if you would like to book a family or single room. Visit www.crerarhotels.com/ ourhotels/oban_bay_hotel