Liverpool restaurants panned in new review book

LIVERPOOL’S eating-out scene in  Capital of Culture year is a big  disappointment according to  restaurant bible Harden’s.

The newly-published 2008  edition derides the city’s  restaurant offering and gives a  star rating to just two venues,  Alma de Cuba and the Everyman  Bistro.

It also gives the opinion that  two former rising stars, 60 Hope  Street and London Carriageworks,   have failed to live up to  expectations.

Harden’s is an independent  publication based on reports from  everyday consumers up and down the country.

On Liverpool, editors Richard  and Peter Harden concluded: “It’s  difficult to avoid the conclusion  that restaurants in Europe’s 2008  Capital of Culture lack staying  power on the culinary front.

“Each time the city produces a  potential shooting star – 60 Hope  Street and the Carriageworks –  it’s not long before they seem to  succumb to the power of gravity  (or should that be complacency?).  And even though there’s a  Chinatown, the ethnic restaurant  scene is pretty lacklustre, too.

“On current performance, the  only place which could really be  recommended to a one-night  visiting culture vulture is the  striking Alma de Cuba”

Of Alma De Cuba, in Seel Street,  they say: “An old church,  brilliantly transformed into a  restaurant which offers a  stunning setting combined with  ambitious and eclectic Caribbean  food.”

The only other star-rated  establishment is the Everyman  Bistro, is also recommended. The guide states: “This  self-service gem has been a much-  loved local fixture for over 35  years. Its winning formula  includes a lively vibe and a good  selection of ales, not to mention a  tempting array of dishes.”

Elsewhere, the Gulshan, in  Aigburth, is described as “the  only curry house in the city worth  mentioning” while the Malmaison  Hotel is “a notable destination”, at  least by local standards.

Puschka, in Rodney Street, is  “competent”, Japanese restaurant  Sapporo offers “amazing theatre”  and the Yuet Ben in Upper Duke  Street is a “Scouse institution”.

There are also honourable  mentions for the Warehouse  Brasserie, in Southport, and  Lino’s, in Hoylake. 

The editors add: “This guide is  written from the bottom up, that  is to say, its composition reflects  the restaurants, pubs and cafés  that people talk about.

“So if you want to know the best  place to eat, ask a local. That’s  what we do, in fact we have asked  over 8,000 people across the length and breadth of the UK.

“As this guide accepts no  advertising, payments or free  meals, our independence is  assured.” 

Although the guide is based on the opinions of customers rather than experts, it is highly regarded and thought to be of more use than guides like Michelin.

MICHAEL WILLIAMS, assistant to the marketing director at Alma de Cuba, in Liverpool: “It’s great to have a positive review and its shows how far we’ve come over the last six months since being taken over by a new company. With it being Capital of Culture, it’s going to increase our footfall.”

Gary Manning, owner and chef at 60 Hope Street: “We have stood the test of time and been here over nine years, while a lot of others have come and gone. We do what we do and we do it well, and the best accolade is that we’re a busy restaurant.”

Paddy Byrne, co-founder of Everyman Bistro: “We’re delighted. It’s sad that Liverpool can’t produce more restaurants of that standard.”

Paul Askew, chef-patron at London Carriage Works: “We’ve always been aware of the excellent reputation of those around us, and enjoy very much being part of the renaissance in Liverpool.”

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