HE FAMOUSLY became the first Briton and the youngest chef to receive three Michelin stars.

But firebrand celebrity chef Marco Pierre White yesterday said his new restaurant, The Swan, will not be gunning for the critics’ awards.

Instead, White said his locals will be his greatest critics.

The Leeds-born restaurateur, who officially opened the Aughton venue yesterday, has already admitted he will not be cooking at The Swan, having hung up his apron five years ago.

On his decision to walk away from the stove – and his three stars – he said: “I was being judged by people who had less knowledge than me.

“So what are three stars worth? Not much.

“The greatest critic is the person who comes every week and pays your bills.

“That is your most important critic: your reservation book.”

Sanguine Hospitality announced White was going to put his name to the restaurant-with-rooms in November. Since then, it has shut its doors and undergone a refit.

Gone is the brightly-coloured Spanish theme of predecessor Café Del Mar.

Now the decor oozes modern, minimalist chic. Slate-grey walls, faultlessly-white table cloths and lightly-varnished floorboards are the order of the day.

Yesterday, an army of serving staff wearing black aprons and white museum curator-style gloves, kept scores of customers well-fed.

The £55 three-course set lunch menu reflected the wider “modern British” theme of the à la carte selection.

The foie gras and chicken liver parfait came with a sweet, sultana jelly and toasted brioche.

A fillet of beef slab was served pink with green peppercorn sauce and generous “real chips”, while the chocolate mousse was immovably thick, rich and delicious.