GENEVA: Swiss please

Jun 10 2008 By Caroline Innes

WHEN you win the National Lottery check in here - you will not be disappointed.

Le Richemond, which counts some of the world’s most prominent people among its guests, is heralded as the greatest hotel in Geneva and one of the world’s leading places to stay.

And the rumours just might be right.

When Michael Jackson and Madonna checked in to the recently acquired Rocco Forte hotel, they were following in the footsteps of the famous of yesteryear – including legends such as Swiss resident Charlie Chaplin.

And now it was my turn to live it up.

This is true Grand Hotel living and it would be easy to feel intimidated by the sheer luxury on offer – and the price of a bowl of soup on the room service menu. (Around £20 in case you were wondering).

But the huge beds, walk-in wardrobes and amazingly spacious marble bathrooms complete with fluffy robes, plasma screen televisions (yes in the bathrooms) and expensive toiletries are coupled with such warm hospitality that soon my boyfriend and I felt right at home.

Wearing what we still truly believe were the comfiest slippers ever, we spent our first night exploring our suite and tested out our three state-of-the-art plasma TVs – which come loaded with around 500 music albums. Brilliant.

While snacking on the finest handcrafted Swiss chocolate we studied our map of Geneva over a bottle of wine and looked forward to exploring the city on the lake.

A 2007 survey found Geneva to have the second-highest quality of living in the world, narrowly outranked by Zürich – but having never been to Switzerland we did not know what to expect.

After all it isn’t most people’s first choice for a weekend city break.

We’d been told about the chocolate, the cheese, the Swiss obsession for clocks and Geneva’s landmark spout! But nothing had prepared us for the breathtaking view from our balcony.

Facing the peaceful Brunswick Gardens, Rocco Forte’s Le Richemond could not be better placed, overlooking Lake Geneva and towards the Alps and Europe’s highest mountain, Mont Blanc.

Standing on the balcony gazing towards Geneva’s old town cathedral, this sophisticated city I began to understand why it is as romantic a destination as its more popular European counterparts.

Although host to the headquarters of international agencies such as the UN and the Red Cross, Geneva is not sterile, business-like or soulless.

This city is as packed with cafe bars, restaurants and quaint chocolate shops as it is charm.

And charming chocolatiers are only to happy to take the time to explain what each of their individual hand-crafted creations contains.

Geneva is no place to be on a diet. Armed with a month’s supply of genuine Swiss truffles and Florentines we headed to a small suburb of Geneva called Carouge in search of that other Swiss delicacy – cheese fondue!

Carouge was granted to the Kingdom of Sardinia in 1754 and, to this day, has retained its Mediterranean-like atmosphere with pretty tree-lined streets and shaded squares.

Trendy boutiques restaurants and bistros serve typical Mediterranean fare and although we didn’t find the fondue we did enjoy tasty salami pizzas in a small friendly Italian restaurant.

It was a complete contrast to the centre of Geneva and the exquisite perfection of Le Richemond.

But this shabby-chic Italian was packed with warmth, was full of atmosphere and offered the same genuine hospitality as the superb staff at our five-star hotel.

In fact all the Swiss people we met were friendly, courteous and helpful. They also loved their chocolate and, fortunately, so do I.

At every opportunity and after every meal chocolates were proudly served.

Even the captain on our SWISS flight home came out of the cockpit to hand out special Lindt milk chocolate to his passengers as a last taste of what we were leaving behind.

And of course we were reluctant to go.

Le Richemond was breath-taking. And we were even impressed with SWISS Air Lines professionalism and high standards.

Geneva may not be everyone’s automatic choice for a weekend break destination but if you have done the likes of Paris, Rome, Venice and Madrid then it may just surprise you.

Oh, and as you may gather, the chocolate is amazing.

Our trip was short but was packed with all the essential elements for the perfect weekend away.

I would love to return to Le Richemond but for now - and until the bank balance allows - will have to make do with padding round the house in my Le Richemond slippers. Did I tell you just how comfy they are?

Travel tips

Caroline Innes flew to Geneva with Swiss International (www.swiss.com/uk; 0845 601 0956) It flies from Manchester to Geneva three times daily, via Zurich.

Return flights cost from £106pp including taxes and charges.

Business class fares between Manchester and Geneva start from £351

Caroline stayed at Le Richemond Hotel, 8-10 Rue Adhemar-Fabri, Jardin Brunswick, 1201 Geneva, Switzerland

A standard double room is available from around £250.

For reservations and more information, call +44 (0)20 7580 2663 or log on to www.lerichemond.com

The hotel features the elegant Le Spa – the only one in the city centre – and new sleek rooms with amazing bathrooms.

Its Sapori restaurant serves simple Italian cuisine. Menus range from light meals at noon and business lunches to more sophisticated dinners.