PORTUGAL'S ATLANTIC COAST: Get a taste of royal luxury

Jul 22 2008 by Vicki Kellaway

The bay of Cascais, Portugal _320

THINK of a European playground for the rich and famous.

It’s unlikely the twin Portuguese fishing towns of Estoril and Cascais will spring to mind, but with budget flights to Lisbon from John Lennon Airport perhaps it’s time to reconsider.

You wouldn’t be the first holidaymaker to fall for this divine coastline, a 40-minute drive or 20-minute train journey from Portugal’s capital.

Locals call it the Coast of Kings and are forever grateful to the Portuguese monarchy for making the place trendy as far back as 1870.

Even our royals responded and Edward VIII followed the rush of money to savour Estoril’s salty air and sheltered beaches when he abandoned the English throne in 1936.

The glitterati are still there, enjoying the region’s luxury hotels and apartments and eight immaculate golf courses.

James Bond creator Ian Fleming’s original Casino Royale has fallen into ruins in Estoril, soon to become apartments beside the old British and Nazi headquarters in the former spy capital, which are now grand hotels themselves. But Europe’s largest casino, Casino Estoril, where the spies supposedly shared their secrets over cocktails, remains and is well worth packing your finery to visit.

Even the non-gamblers, those lucky few who can resist a noisy slot machine or a tempting roulette wheel, will enjoy the three-course meal and showcase of dancers, magicians and gymnasts from across the world.

I stayed at the luxurious suite hotel Viva Marinha, a five-star apartment hotel which has two golf courses, a spa and a swimming pool nestled in acres of greenery.

Even with those "get away from it all" surroundings – a taxi into town was quick and cheap and allowed me to explore the many bars and restaurants in the Bay of Cascais.

That included Beira Mar, or By The Sea, restaurant, where delicious seafood dishes are served metres from Pescadores Beach, where the fisherman bring them home.

You could savour Cascais and Estoril’s beaches, shops and sites for your entire stay, but it’s best to hire a car for one day at least and pop over the border into Sintra.

The winding coast road makes for a glorious journey past Cabo da Roca, continental Europe’s most Western point, but don’t linger long at this breezy and historical spot if you wish to make the most of your trip.

Sintra’s romantic Pena Palace will entrance children and adults alike with its coloured turrets, engravings and furniture which remain almost untouched since the last royals left in 1910.

One beauty of the Coast of Kings is its proximity to Lisbon, and a sensible holidaymaker will save at least one day to explore Portugal’s vibrant capital.

The Belem cultural quarter is a good place to start, with museums including the Museu dos Coches , which continues the fairytale theme with its plump and elaborately carved royal coaches.