CANADA: Summer in Ontario

Nov 16 2007

Gemma Quade canoes through the Canadian wilderness

AS WE boldly paddled our canoes out into the lakes of Ontario, the instruction was clear: when any form of large wildlife loomed, we should point it out calmly to the rest of the group with an oar, to avoid alarming the beast in question.

For most of our week in the splendid Algonquin and Killarney Provincial Parks, we observed the rule to the letter – but it flew completely out the window on our final day.

“Oh, my God, it’s a bear!” screeched the front runner in our party, waving her arms like a woman possessed.

While perhaps not the recommended method of alerting the group, it certainly focused our attention.

It’s an old saying in Canada that you never get between a mother bear and her cubs.

Yet here we were, faced with a black bear and her two tiny babies, wandering around on a tiny island just yards away.

As amazing as the sight was, we were scared.

Luckily, the beautiful creatures were far too busy to take the slightest interest in us.

After giving us a quick look up and down, they decided we were no threat and nonchalantly climbed up a tree.

It was the perfect end to a fantastic summer trip to two of Ontario’s most famous and majestic parks.

For our first three nights, we camped under the stars in Algonquin. Everything in Canada is on a completely different scale to Britain, so we were pretty awe-struck when we were told Algonquin Provincial Park was the size of Wales at 7,725 sq km.

Made up of forests of maple, birch, pine and poplar and some 2,500 fresh- water lakes, there was certainly a lot of choice when it came to picking a canoe route.

Our Call of the Wild guide was incredibly patient as we zigzagged uncontrollably across Rock Lake, and then when she taught us how to get across a portage (a carry-way) between Rock and Pen Lake. While 375m doesn’t sound like a long way, when you are carrying a canoe upside down on your head, plus supplies, tents and camping gear, over uneven and rocky ground, it feels more like 375km.

Eventually, we managed and, after a little more canoeing, we were soon settled into our new home – a tranquil island in the middle of Pen Lake. Falling asleep that night with the hypnotic sounds of bullfrogs and the occasional howl from one of the park’s 200 resident wolves, I felt we were worlds away from the hustling, bustling life back home.

Over the next few days, we explored the lakes surrounding our campsite, coming across a moose, beavers, turtles and countless loons – the provincial bird of Ontario.

Killarney Provincial Park couldn’t have been more different from Algonquin.

We stayed just outside of the park’s boundaries, in a tiny town of the same name that sits on the northern tip of Georgian Bay.

With just 800 residents, Killarney has one general store, one bar, and the bank, hospital and post office all share the same building.

Killarney Mountain Lodge, our base for the rest of the holiday, looks like it has come straight from a scene in Dirty Dancing.

With cosy, pine-clad cabins and a bar, the Carousel Lounge, complete with retro geometric fabric sofas, transported us back into the 1960s.

Food at the lodge is all home-cooked by the friendly staff.

Delicious pan-seared, sweet-tasting pickerel, caught daily from Georgian Bay’s 15,000 sq km of fresh water, and blueberry cake, made with the largest fruits I’ve ever seen, were regulars on the menu.

We ate like kings during our stay, particularly on our gourmet kayak and cruise day trip.

As we prepared for the outing, learning how to do Eskimo rolls in the lodge’s pool, we had a rare taste of bad weather.

Under leaden skies, we set out by boat to the shores of Philip Edward Island, huge waves crashing against us. Before the Ice Age shifted parts of the world’s structure, the La Cloche mountain range was higher than The Rockies, and their gleaming quartzite makes them dazzle before us like snow capped peaks.

But perhaps even more stunning was the landscape of our destination. We explored countless of the local pink granite islands by kayak, all beautifully smooth thanks to the movement of ice millions of years ago.

While many like to visit Canada to see the magnificent colours of The Fall, this country truly is a wonder at any time of year.

GEMMA QUADE was a guest of Ontario Tourism and flew with Zoom Airlines, which offers one-way flights to Toronto from £129 (incl taxes), with £99 supplement for premium class. Supplements include £10 to select seat in advance, £30 for extra legroom in economy, www.flyzoom.com or 0870 240 0055.

Call of the Wild four-day trips into Algonquin from £216 include all group equipment, meals, permits, and guide. Round trip from Toronto costs £58 per person. The 6% local sales tax is extra to all prices, www. CallOfTheWild.ca

Stays at Killarney Lodge start at £29.50 per person per night, with the Summer Lodge Adventure Package from £261, www.killarney.com or 001 705 287 2242.