VIETNAM: War wounds healed long ago

Dec 15 2007 by Shereen Low, Liverpool Daily Post

CRAWLING through a sandy and claustrophobic tunnel below the ground wasn’t quite the experience I had dreamt of when I imagined a visit to Vietnam.

But this was no ordinary underground tunnel. I was taking a journey back into history through the Cu Chi network, built by the Vietnamese to hide from the Americans, during the Vietnam War.

The labyrinth, which delves deep under the dusty soil and winds over 200km long, is 90 minutes’ drive away from the centre of Ho Chi Minh City. They are very elaborate and consist of sleeping bunkers, dining rooms and even kitchens, in which the Vietcong lived for up to 20 years.

The entrances to these underground networks were tiny trap-doors through which native soldiers slid easily. No matter how hard the Americans bombed and fought, some tunnels still remained undiscovered.

They may have been scarred by the war but the Vietnamese don’t let it affect daily lives. More than 20 years on, there are more glimpses of colonial history around the city - Notre Dame cathedral and the Continental hotel, in the middle of Ho Chi Minh City, display the charm of French architecture and are strong reminders of the French invasion.

If all the history gets too serious, head to the countryside at Da Lat. A popular spot with the locals, and an hour’s flight from Ho Chi Minh City, it is often chosen by honeymooners because of its temperate climate, natural sights of waterfalls and lakes, and its abundance of flowers and vegetables.

Western tourists may find it a bit cheesy, with its miniature Eiffel Tower, constant romantic sights such as horse-drawn carriages, statues of couples gazing lovingly into each other’s eyes and the over-use of pink lace.

The Evason Dalat Villas, an Ana Mandara resort up in the hills of the Central Highlands, is a world away from these clichés.

Evoking a sense of old-fashioned romance, the 15 French colonial chalets, which were built in the 20s, are spacious and earthy, with each room boasting its own fireplace and traditional features, such as clawfoot bathtubs and heavy wooden writing desks.

After an early morning yoga session in the temple grounds, and a hearty breakfast of traditional Vietnamese beef pho (rice noodles in soup broth) and an exotic fruit platter consisting of pineapples, papaya, dragonfruit and pomelo, we were ready to explore the area.

We started off by visiting a traditional embroidery factory at Da Lat’s Historical Village, where artworks sell for between $15 and $15,000 (£7 and more than £7,000 respectively). Sadly, not all of us are as lucky as England footballer David Beckham, who was given a free painting after his visit.

Across the road from the Historical Village, and inappropriately next to the Valley of Love, is "Variety Creature Strange" - basically a zoo of mangled animals. Not advisable for the sensitive, the "creatures" include chickens, dogs, cats and cows all with extra legs.

From Da Lat, we travelled for four hours by car to the fishing village of Nha Trang, before taking a 20-minute boat ride to the island of Ninh Van Bay, known as one of the world’s most beautiful bays. The long journey is worth it when you finally set foot on the pure white sandy beach and turquoise waters.

At the Six Senses Hideaway here at Ninh Van Bay, (pictured), also part of the Evason chain, you can choose from four different types of villa, all with panoramic views of the sea and ready to satisfy your every comfort. Each comes with an enormous bathroom, outdoor shower, private balcony with daybed where you can sprawl for hours, and a private plunge pool.

Recent celebrity guests at the Presidential suite include Prince William, who stayed alone, Prince Andrew, Prince Caroline of Monaco, and Madonna.

If, and when, you can pull yourself away from your villa, you’ll find that the idyllic Hideaway is simply a very lovely place to put your feet up.

Those craving more excitement can take a boat to the mainland, and explore Nha Trang’s main market, or other islands nearby. This is where you’ll find the Vietnam of old, with only the occasional fishing boat anchored in the bay for company.

Foodies will be in seventh heaven here. Seafood is in abundance on the island and shellfish lovers can opt for the three-course lobster menu. This meal consists of lobster fried in a crispy shell, followed by lobster soup, and an entree of half of lobster with Vietnamese fried rice. With delicious food, engaging history and spectacular hotels with everything you desire at your fingertips, Vietnam is a destination that cannot disappoint.

* SHEREEN LOW was a guest of Kuoni Travel, which offers a seven-night stay in Vietnam, including two nights’ B&B at Park Hyatt Saigon, in a Park room, two nights’ B&B at the Evason Dalat in villa room, and three nights’ B&B at the Six Senses Hideaway Nha Trang in a beach villa, including flights with Thai Airways from Heathrow with transfers and domestic flights.

Prices start at £1,886 per person, or from £1,834 per person, from February, 2008 (two sharing).

If your package includes a British Airways long-haul flight, connecting BA flights from nine UK regional airports, including Manchester, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Belfast and Newquay are free, subject to availability. Kuoni reservations: 01306 747008/ www.kuoni.co.uk