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ANTIGUA: The antidote to everyday stress

Nelson's dockyard, Antigua. Picture: Antigua & Barbuda Tourist Office

Beautiful beaches, fantastic food and superior service - what's not to like about this superstars' playground. Gilly Pickup reports

ELEGANT retreats, friendly locals and leisurely lifestyle... this is Antigua, sunniest island in the eastern Caribbean.

With a necklace of 365 pristine, palm-fringed beaches, (according to the unsubstantiated count of the tourist board) sun worshippers are in their element. Where else could you stay for a year without visiting the same beach twice?

This crunchy Caribbean island can be sure its never-ending stream of celebrity visitors like the Beckhams, Peter Gabriel and Roger Moore give it iconic appeal.

Giorgio Armani owns a rather splendid place on the northwest coast at Galley Bay Heights, while Eric Clapton went one step further and not only bought a home here, but also built a drug rehabilitation clinic.

There is no shortage of places for travellers to hang their hat in Antigua, but Galley Bay Resort is the kind of place for which the phrase "exclusive hideaway" was invented.

Nestling on one of Antigua's west coast beaches, Galley Bay offers guests mega-doses of superior service, great food and understated, rustic luxury.

Though there are plenty of complimentary facilities for those who stir from their sun lounger, like tennis, croquet and windsurfing, this big-on-peace, hide and chic resort languishing in 40 acres of lush tropical gardens bursting with hibiscus, oleander and bougainvillea is somewhere to take your relaxation seriously.

On the remote northeast coast of the island, surrounded by a reef-protected bay, is Antigua's newest eco-friendly retreat The Verandah, which opened at the end of last year.

It is near Devils Bridge, a natural limestone arch carved by the sea which explodes in a never-ending frenzy of spray.

Only a short boat trip away are the uninhabited nature sanctuaries Green Island and Great Bird Island, home to West Indian whistling ducks, rare lizards and laughing gulls.

The resort's low-rise villas are built in classic Caribbean design with gabled roofs and timber-clad frames, designed to blend with the palm tree perfect surroundings.

It is an idyllic location where tiny hummingbirds build nests lined with cobwebs on flowering Dagger Trees and cheeky bananaquit birds swoop down at breakfast to steal sugar from the tables.

But if - perish the thought - all this luxuriating in heavenly hotels should begin to pall and you are hell-bent on wasting energy, you could cycle or take a drive round the island. The minus side is negotiating pot holes large enough to hold a party in. On the plus side, driving is on the left.

Wherever you venture, you will see crumbling sugar mills, remnants of the old plantation days.

A thriving sugar industry once drove the island's economy. Betty's Hope, built in 1650, was one of Antigua's first sugar plantations and its success led to the island's rapid development of large-scale sugar production.

Antigua is still proud of her British ties, and for a frisson of historic atmosphere visit Nelson's Dockyard, the only working Georgian dockyard in the world.

Nelson was stationed here 200 years ago to develop British naval facilities at English Harbour and enforce stringent commercial shipping laws that made him unpopular with locals and traders.