NORTH WALES: True gems of Wales

Jan 29 2008 by Maria Breslin

Maria Breslin visits our close neighbour and discovers that you can enjoy the delights of travel without going too far

SOMETIMES we're so busy booking no-frills flights to Eastern European destina-tions we've never even heard of, we forget about the adventures to be had on our own doorstep.

Scotland, The Lake District - really they're both but a leisurely drive up the road. And then there's our next-door-neighbour, North Wales.

Seaside resorts such as Rhyl and Prestatyn have long been popular summer destinations for generations of Scousers. But I suggest digging a bit deeper to unearth some of this proud country's true gems.

For a start, head inland off the dreary A55 dual-carriageway as soon as possible. Enjoy a drive through the spectacular Conwy Valley, stop for a spot of lunch in postcard-pretty Betws y Coed, marvel at Blaenau Ffestiniog's lunar-like landscape before arriving in Porthmadog.

Once a busy shipping port trading in slate, and home to the legendary Lawrence of Arabia, Porthmadog and neighbouring Tremadog are neither quaint nor picturesque.

What you'll find is a busy working town with a stunning harbour which lives up to its title official "gateway to Snowdonia".

There is no shortage of places to stay in Porthmadog. But it's the imposing three-star Royal Sportsman Hotel that stands out.

It was built in 1862 as the main staging post in the area ahead of the Cambrian Railway's arrival in the town five years later and was famed for its own liveried carriage and horses stabled in what is now the sizeable garage.

Today it's almost at the end of a massive restoration programme overseen by owner Louis Naudi, who took over in 1999, and his Romanian wife Viorica.

It may not be to everybody's taste, but personally I say "thank God" for hotels like the Royal Sportsman. They have heart. They have soul. And they bring back fond memories of the B&Bs I used to stay in with my mum and dad.

Louis may not be able to compete with the faceless and characterless hotel chains when it comes to state-of-the-art bathrooms, but the hotel's 28 rooms are a good size, spotlessly clean and comfortable.

Family rooms are equipped with bunk beds - a sure-fire hit with kids of a certain age.

The hotel's fragrant Orchard patio garden is impeccably tended and the service throughout first class.

Former marketing and management consultant Louis said his hotel is successful, proving increasingly popular with golfers, wedding parties and the business community as well as the more traditional guests.

But wisely, considering our ever-growing obsession with eating, he's keen on a "food-led operation".

"Good, unpretentious food - nothing too clever" is the mission statement.

Peppino's restaurant is traditional and perhaps a tad too formal - although the atmosphere is relatively relaxed.

In a town starved of places to eat the prices may seem a little steep. But the management deserves a slap on the back for sourcing their produce locally and for putting a bit of thought into their children's menu.

Certainly the food we tried was top-notch. The pan-seared scallops on a cauliflower puree with sauteed black pudding got 10 out of 10 on our table.

Just as popular for mains was the rack of Welsh lamb with braised savoy cabbage, truffle oil mash, buttered cocktail onions and thyme-infused sauce.