NORTH WALES: True gems of Wales

Jan 29 2008 by Maria Breslin

There's something strangely comforting and reassuring about North Wales. It's like an old friend. You can always rely on it. But it's also got a few surprises up its sleeve.

One of them is the narrow gauge Ffestiniog Railway. Even visitors who feel "so what?" about trains can't help but be swept back in time as the exquisite carriages chug across Porthmadog's causeway on an enchanting journey through dramatic mountain scenery bound for Blaenau Ffestiniog. (Soon volunteers hope to link Porthmadog with World Heritage site Caernarfon with the completion of a new stretch of the Welsh Highland Railway).

We were advised to break our journey at Tan y Bwlch - famed for its nature trails through the forest to the beautiful Llyn Mair.

I was secretly more interested in the station cafe, which stocks bottled beers, and the neighbouring children's playground. Sadly the train was already pulling into the distance by the time I realised both were closed.

The next 90-plus minutes were among the longest of my life stuck without food and water in the middle of nowhere. A stroll to the lake below proved torturous - packed as it was with picnicking families hauling overflowing hampers to the edge of the water. Be warned.

We made no such mistake during a trip to Portmeirion - the Italianate village created by architect Clough Williams-Ellis and immortalised in cult TV series The Prisoner.

I've been many times and Portmeirion is always magical. Especially seen through the eyes of a young child with an overactive mind searching for treasure buried by fearsome pirates. Priceless.

In fact there are so many adventures to be had in this corner of Wales.

Borth-y-Gest is an unspoilt village with sandy coves and cliffs. And the beach stretches as far as the eye can see on Black Rock Sands.

But my favourite spot is the 18th century fishing village of Porthdinllaen.

Nothing more than a cluster of houses and a waterside pub and protected by the National Trust, you can only get there by walking across the beach from Morfa Nefyn or crossing the headland golf course.

The walk is well worth it. Watching the local seal colony while sipping a drink from the charming Ty Coch really is as good as it gets.

And maybe that 1p flight is not looking quite such a bargain now.

* The Royal Sportsman Hotel - www.royalsportsman.co.uk or call 01766 512015.

* Ffestiniog Railway - www.festrail.co.uk

* Portmeirion - www.portmeirion-village.com or call 01766770000

* Attractions of Snowdonia - www.star-attractions.co.uk

* North Wales Tourism - www.nwt.co.uk