NORTH EAST ENGLAND: Luxury so near and yet so spa

Jul 22 2008 by Neil Macdonald

Headlam Hall, County Durham

DRIVING down a narrow country lane through rippling, sun-dappled fields of wheat, I turned to my wife and said: "This is like the bit of England you see in American films."

I should explain that I didn’t put anyone in danger by doing this, or career off the road. Pam was driving so I could navigate to our destination.

That was Headlam Hall, a beautiful country spa located just far enough off the beaten track outside of Durham to fall into the idyllic, long weekend Four-Weddings-And-A-Funeral- you’d-better-be-able-to-read-a map- or-have-sat-nav class of destination.

The big screen feeling continued when we arrived, because the statuesque hall seemed to have been plucked from a Miss Marple film, with spacious grounds, an immaculate lawn, grand, sweeping staircases and extra comfortable rooms.

However, it had much more than its classic looks to enjoy, as we were to find out.

The hall has been owned for 30 years by John and Ann Robinson. Their family-style approach permeates every brick, so much so that when we were enjoying a drink in the oak-panelled lounge, it felt as if they had just nipped out for a few minutes and asked us to keep an eye on the place, such is the attention to detail and friendly attitude of their staff. We felt very well looked after for every minute we were there.

Apart from hotels, I assumed the family business must be bread making, as the home-made loaves we had at our dining table were nothing short of amazing, a standard the rest of the delicious food more than maintained.

In the past three decades, the family Robinson have expanded their empire by building on a luxurious spa and gym, including a decadent outdoor hot tub, conference suites and even a nine-hole golf course and driving range.

I think Pam said she was very impressed, but I was too busy eating another delicious piece of bread to hear properly.

With our hotel being so magnificent, it was almost a shame to venture out. However, we took the short trip to Barnard Castle, a thriving market town that is home to two jewels.

The first is the titular castle, dating back to 1125. Its remains have been restored and are now open to the public, offering an interesting distraction to wander around.

The second is the Bowes Museum, which is absolutely magnificent. The purpose-built French-style chateau which houses the museum is a totally unexpected sight and the collection inside continues that sense of surprise and wonder.

Brought together by John and Josephine Bowes in the 19th century, it is a treasure trove of artistic delights, including works by Turner, Goya and El Greco. The centrepiece is a 230-year-old mechanical silver swan, bought for £220 in 1872, which is still put through its paces twice a day.

It was described by Mark Twain – yes, that Mark Twain – as having a ‘living grace’ when he saw it in action and who am I to argue? The whole place is a hidden gem that is well worth a visit.

All too soon, our stay at Headlam Hall was over, so, reluctantly waving goodbye to early morning hot tubs and mounds of delicious bread, we headed off for the second part of our north east break, a night in Newcastle.

Just a short drive away, the bustling city offered a complete contrast to the quiet countryside, from the moment we drove over the Tyne and headed for our accommodation. Avoiding hotels and B&Bs, we stayed in one of the many apartments to let in the city centre, in our case with great views of the river and a lovely walk along the bank, although it didn’t have any bread, so was marked down for that.